Both of these switches have two wires running to them , and each can be bypassed by simply cutting the two wires and joining them together.

You're not removing the diode, your removing the side stand relay, I don't understand why. If the side stand switch is working I'd leave it for safety reasons, and just bypass the clutch ,by unplugging it at the clutch lever and tracing it back to  the main harness where the two wires can be cut and joined .

Ok, what the heck is a "neutral safety interlock" ????  The only thing that stops the bike from starting in gear,  with the clutch switch bypassed,  IS  the side stand switch !  If Ryca is telling you that the side stand switch needs to be bypassed that lowers my already low opinion of them.
If you're going to a manual decomp lever then you only need to bypass the clutch switch to free up your left hand to use it, but if you bypass the side stand switch, and forget to put the bike in neutral ,you'll have one hand on the bars to push the starter button and one on the decomp lever ,when the starter makes the bike jump forward , off the side stand and your right hand pulls the front wheel to the right and your bike (and maybe you ) crash to the ground. Not only embarrassing ,but it's broken a lot of turn signals. (maybe Ryca will have some for sale).

The way I'm trying to do it, it will need to be in neutral to start.
No clutch needed. No side stand switch.

Savageman 99 , You can lead a horse to water ,but you can't make him think. . Please go back and read  JOG's and my last entries .
  The only  purpose of the side stand  switch is to prevent you from trying to start the bike in gear, if you bypass it you will fail to have the bike try to start only in neutral.
   It's not crazy ,it's just the truth.

I believe the side stand switch kills the ignition if you try to put the bike in gear while the engine is running....it doesn't affect the starting process unless you are trying to start the bike in gear with the side stand down - if you get the bike started and put it in gear....the ignition circuit stops working and the bike stops running.  The clutch safety does prevent the starter from working if the bike is in gear and you push the starter button without first pulling in the clutch.

The sidestand switch does go bad sometimes - we have had several forum members who have had problems with it and been stranded.....or at least inconvenienced when they can't get their bike to run.  If you remove the clutch safety switch......you will not have the "neutral" safety anymore....the starter will function in or out of gear if you push the starter button (the starter circuit believes you have already pulled in the clutch).  There have been a handful of people with clutch safety issues - most of them from broken or loose wiring....or the plastic tab broken from the switch.

I have no problem with you removing the safety switches if you don't  want them and you won't get a lecture from me - mine have been gone for 6 years and I am not dead yet. (I want the bike as simple as possible to prevent being stranded by a faulty switch....and I have also removed the decompression circuit and have a manual decompression release).  I grew up in an era when safety switches didn't exist exist....and my dirt bikes didn't have neutral lights.  The drill was to get on the bike and grab the handlebars, pull it up off the kickstand, roll it forward/back to check for neutral, turn on the petcock, turn on the ignition, set the choke....and kick start the bike.  (I still do the same today - I just don't have a kick starter anymore).

The RYCA instructions on their website or YouTube go into great detail about how to bypass the decompression release.  For the clutch and sidestand safety switches you just need to remove the wires from the switches and join them together - don't worry about what color they are....there are only 2 wires to each switch and they just need to be wired together).

Here is a link to a thread about wiring mods that will allow you to make a change that allows you to start the bike in neutral without having to use the clutch (just adds complexity in my opinion).
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1351188539

SavageMan99 wrote on 05/02/19 at 07:06:00:


Dunno - but I suspect not.

In "stock condition" - Solid Orange wires in the wiring harness are power wires - they carry the power supply and are generally not switched if the wire doesn't have a white stripe (they may be activated by the key switch but not by any control switch).  Once you start cutting and splicing......the standard colors and stripes may no longer be applicable.