I just ordered these EBC Carbon X brake pads.......it will be a while before I get to try them.  They are a blend of Carbon and Kevlar, and supposed to make minimum heat.......I was hoping that meant they were not too abrasive.

http://www.bikebandit.com/ebc-sport-carbon-x-brake-pads?m=147574

Oldfeller--FSO wrote on 02/26/13 at 10:50:40:


I didn't worry too much about the mud/water/sand statement - as I figure they right this stuff up for ATV and Dirt Bikes as well.  I pretty much try to avoid riding in those conditions anyhow!

Just changed out my front brakes in less than 10 min...no more squeelllll....easy easy easy...bike has 2300 miles+-

I replaced the originals at 13K miles. They were THIN! With only 2K on the EBC pads it too early to tell but I can tell you they work way better than the originals ever did. Even in a 4-5" per hour gully washer! And I hope I never have to ride through that crap again!

Just replaced my OEM pads at 3800 miles and they were truly worn out.  I thought they would last longer but your posts indicate this is not unusual.  My bike is mostly driven in town with lots of starts and stops so maybe that is why they didn't last as long as some others.  I installed the EBC organics but with the snow falling I haven't had a chance to try them out.  No more squeal, I hope.

Brake squeal is something that can be controlled rather cheaply.

The squealing is from a resonance of high frequency vibrations in the pads/calipers when they contact the rotor.  Because of the job the disc brake has to do, this squeal is common, even though Suzuki engineers probably made a large effort to prevent it.

There are several things to try.  Replacing pads with a lot of material left on them is usually not a sensible option,… just a waste of money.

The idea is to change the resonance of the parts that vibrate, therefore pushing the resonance out of the range that tends to create a squeal.  Here are some ways:

 -- Use the lube typically supplied with replacement pads.  This is a high-heat lube that goes between the pads and the piston that changes the resonance frequency.  Use sparingly.
 -- Use that same lube on all the parts that support the caliper that allow the caliper to move back and forth.  Again, use sparingly.
 -- Sometimes the pads, or even the rotors, can acquire a glaze that tends to make a squeal.  Lightly scouring one or both surfaces can help here.  Use 400 grit sandpaper (wet), or rubbing compound, steel wool, chore girl, comet cleanser, etc.  You don’t want any scratches, just a satin finish.
 -- Chamfer the edges of the pads.
      --- This changes the angle between the edge of the pad and the rotor surface, which changes how the pad tries to "dig in" to the rotor.  
      --- Chamfering the leading edge of the pad is sufficient. This will change the resonance frequency one way or another.
      --- If chamfering the leading edge stops the squeal, it may come back, say, 2,000 miles later when the pads wear down enough to erase the chamfer.  Just chamfer it again.
 -- Clean all the surfaces completely, then put a very thin layer of RTV on the back of the pad where it contacts the piston in the caliper.  Also put a very thin layer on the surface of the piston that contacts the pad.  Let it dry for a few hours.  
      --- By "very thin layer” I mean put a little on your finger, rub it on the surface and then wipe just about all of it off with a clean finger(s).  
      --- You don’t want any actual cushion here,…. that will make the brakes feel spongy.  You want only enough to change the resonance of these two mating surfaces,.. just residue, not an actual layer.  
      --- Make sure you use something with a high heat capability.  Normal RTV will work,.. hi-temp RTV might be better.  It's cheap.
 -- Cut out a piece of coke can metal shaped like the back of the disc brake pad, and insert that piece between the pad and the piston.  That metal is pretty tough stuff.  I also use it for shims when aligning gyrocopter rotors.  Sounds goofy, but it does change/negate the resonances, so it can eliminate the squeal.

Gyrobob wrote on 03/02/13 at 07:02:37:


Didn't notice any difference from set to set.

You'll probably have to figure this one out yourself. I use Vesrah VD329 pads, but I notice a lot on here think paying over $20 is a bit much. Riding style figures in when you consider fading on hot pads after pushing through twistys. And some riders like a fast initial grab while others like a more linear, smooth application with plent of lock up power at the end if needed. Does EMGO make brake shoes? I used EBC or EMGO on the rear just 'cause I had it torn down, but they do tend to lock up easier. BTW the ones I took off were 1/2 worn stock. Don't expect to ever put another set on the rear. Well, maybe not. I've been practicing using the rear more when just easing up to a stop or just slowing a little. The quest continues.