Hi rf,

The first thing we need to know is the history of what brands/weights of motor oils have been in the crankcase.....

This may seem redundant but did you properly adjust the clutch cable including the rod replacement if needed, also did you replace the steels or at least scuff them up?

R.F.

rfbznb wrote on 09/22/12 at 19:09:35:


rfbznb the steel plates tend to get glazed over time,especially with worn friction plates/slipping clutches and such. In order for the clutch to grab and hang tight the glazing needs to be gently scrubbed off the steel plates. Also,new clutch discs need to be "broken-in" just like a new/rebuilt engine.

before i changed the clutch i used castrol 4 stroke oil.
i got the bike used with 16000 miles on it and its a 1986
so im not sure what they used it before me.

i used ebc friction plates and i reused the spring that it had on it because they where bigger and stiffer then the ebc spring i got.

and with the rod i just made sure that it had play when i put the side cover on and it was not tight pushing on the clutch.

im not sure if it matters but i did do the chain conversion a month after i got the bike because i do alot of highway riding.

the clutch mostly slips on the highway when im doing about 70 and i try and go faster to pass.

im tired of it doing and it is allso getting a little worse.

 
You have told me nothing about how you adjusted your push rod length, nothing about checking the chrome lever vs the marks on the case and about putting in the correct push rod length for your new EBC plates to put your chrome lever in between the marks on the crankcase.  

Indeed, you have never told me where your chrome clutch lever points to right now, so you may be out of whack or not -- you have simply never said.

You did tell me you used Castrol oil, 4 stroke which I am ASSuming was a motorcycle oil.   If it was a car oil Castrol, you are possibly screwed again because Castrol car oil can have energy star compounds in it that can make your clutch slip.  You have never even said what weight you used.

EBC clutch sets have known issues with wrong springs (and who knows what else wrong as it seems they come out differently each time somebody tries one).

You did not brake parts cleaner to chemically strip your steel friction plates, followed by thorough sanding on both sides with medium-coarse sandpaper powered by a finishing sander to remove all the burnished and ground in place anti-friction coating crap you inherited from your previous owner.  

When steel plates go back in they should be showing fresh shiny scratch marks all over them on both sides.

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Start out with saying where your chrome clutch lever is pointing relative to those case marks .....    use a light rubber band to put a very mild up tension on the lever to take out all the slack in the eccentric system -- top picture is good, bottom picture is bad.

 
Yes, there is a ton of slack in the system, which makes it necessary to use the rubber band test method.  

Put the light rubber band under the lever and put the gentle up force from the rubber band under the lever tugging it upwards and then report where the bottom of the lever sits relative to the marks.

We don't care about the rivet, we use the bottom of the lever as our gauging point and we use the rubber band to remove all the slack & slop from consideration.

So, using the method, where are you now?