You shouldn't ever assume that things are black and white, especially when it comes to electrical connections and extreme temperature differences. Cold damp day and the bike all of a sudden turns over slow but on hot days it's fine and whenever the bike is warm it always starts right up? That's from heat expanding the metal connections at the battery, or the cold contracting them and causing a high-resistance connection. It's probably a similar situation here. When the bike is warm, the busted spring has expanded enough to hold the plunger away. When it cools off, the spring contracts and eventually bam, contact, and the engine begins to turn over.

I'm not saying that's exactly what it is but you're making the situation a LOT more complicated than it most likely is. The probability of 3 things failing at the exact same time is less likely than you winning the lottery while simultaneously getting struck by lightning. Replace the solenoid first, it's the logical first step.

And besides, without the ignition switch turned on, nothing gets power except for the starter solenoid. NOTHING. It's not like in a car where power is still running to half of it. In a bike, the ignition is more akin to a battery cut-off switch. The entire bike is powered down with the ignition off.
I am wrong. Fuses get power directly from the battery.

rfw2003 wrote on 08/04/12 at 01:41:15:

You are missing something. The decomp controller gets +12V straight through the red/white wire that passes through the 2nd fuse. No key, clutch switch, no nothin'.  It always has access to that 12V and all it has to do is pass it on to the black/yellow wire that goes to the starter relay and the starter will light up.  Test the decomp controller and look for any chafed insulation, particularly the red/white and black/yellow wires. (I don't know the actual colors.. just going with the diagram)

Oh crap, look at that, I completely missed that wire. The one with the white plug on it. How did I miss that? Well anyways, if rapping the fender makes it stop, how could it be anything else? Rapping the fender isn't going to shake the decomp controller even if it was mounted to the fender, it's rubber isolated.

rfw2003 wrote on 08/04/12 at 01:41:15:




Yep,, you are. Theres a single red wire, 18 maybe 20 gauge, skinny thing, under the seat that is always hot, Thats how I made my switch always spin the starter, even with the key in my pocket,

Unlessyou are talking about that red wire being the one that goes to the key,, IDK where it goes, I found it & used it.

Did we ever get anymore on this problem ?
I think it was narrowed down to more likely being a faulty controller for the comp release,.....if not a shorted harness ?

I kinda renamed this "The spooky Suki"

I wanna say 2nd wire from left on the front of the decomp will fire the decomp & starter if ya lay 12 V on it. I think that bypasses it, but it sure will start that way..I THINK thats the right wire..

Just took apart the Decomp controller and it was def the issue.  Here are a few pics of the inside of it.  Notice the brown sludge and corrosion all over the place in there.   The circuit board break was from taking it apart.