Boule’tard wrote on 06/11/09 at 11:53:35:

Cool, as far as I know my main is a 145, as long as that's what came stock in '08.
My only concern with the K&N was the gumming, as it seems the slide would be particularly succeptable to that.  As long as a guy doesn't hose it down though, that's probably avoidable.  Have to start shopping around for a filter maybe.

Problem with any very high flowing dry air filter is that it lets all the little airborn dust crap go right on through and into your engine, where it winds up in your oil as "recirculating fine lapping compound".

You don't need to go there -- trust me.  Our bikes don't "gunk up" from filter oil -- I am the world's Savage expert on the over oiling of air filters and what it does (or does not do) to your carb or your engine.

Max affect of VERY gross over oiling on the Savage is a very temporary throttle lag condition (hesitation or "wonkiness") caused by the heavy oil impeding the vacuum actuated slide temporarily.   This effect only lasts a few days before the gas flow thins out the oil and effectively washes the slide clean again.  

Wonkiness is a TEMPORARY mild perceived performance effect, you can simply wait it out or give the carb a shot of carb cleaner and fix it instantly.  Up to you of course.

All the bad stuff you are reading about on the web about oil and K&N filters is all about emission control systems and sensors.  Over oiling a K&N will kill hundreds of dollars worth of modern emissions control sensors on a modern sports bike -- VERY bad news when it happens and it gets lots & lots of chatter accordingly.

But we ain't got any sensors to kill -- so don't sweat it.

Actually, any residual (thinned out) air filter oil on our CV slides helps it to move better and helps prevent the long term wearing off the black teflon coating, which is actually a good thing for your carb in the long run.

Go worry about something else -- this one isn't going to hurt you.

KNOCKDOLIAN wrote on 01/26/10 at 11:18:55:



whoa dude; we don't want a red header.  Man, that is freaking hot.
You really need to get that rejetted.
The stage one kit you saw may be what you need but he does not tell you what size jets you will receive so you don't know if they are the size you will need for your specific setup on your bike.
He does include some kind of instruction sheet, though past experience has been that his info is not always accurate.
His kit has 1 pilot jet and 1 main jet + 2 washers for almost $27.

If you wish to consider an alternative, I sell JETSETS for $21.95, shipping included...even to England.

Contents

2 pilot jets:  #52.5 & #55
3 main jets:  #150, #152.5 & #155
3 washers to replace white needle spacer
float bowl gasket

I do not include any instructions.  If needed, there are a lot of helpful instructions in the tech section on this website covering all kinds of variations of mod's on the LS650.
The selection of jets I include will provide all the jets you may need for any stock LS650 setup, muffler replacement of any type, or even a slightly modified engine when still using the stock carb.

If you choose to do so, you can order via Paypal, making payment to "savage.s40@gmail.com"
If necessary, I can send you an invoice with which payment can be made using a credit card.


*********

yea, ok guys, I know, I am shamelessly promoting my JETSET .... guilty  

Already ordered them, hope their on the their way. Quick question. Why is the dyner exhaust so popular. Will a sportster one do

Hi all, Well read all the info on carb jetting. Bought myself an after market can not Dyna but a nice slash cut with very little restriction.
K&N filter (open air box for the moment)
I have gone with diamond jim's graph. Stage 5 step13.
The bike started and revved ok but, adjusting the mixture screw has NO effect on on tick over from all the way in to all out. Having removed the screw there seems to be bits missing. Is there always a spring. washer and seal as all these bits are missing. I believe the lack of seal and spring is allowing air past the needle. Is this a fair assumption and what next?
Thanks  

Well after spending all weekend taking carb off, putting carb on I think im making progress. Thanks mainly to lancer who is a very knowledge and very fine chap. Now then I just want to clarify a couple of things. As far as I know, my wife's bike was stock. Having put a big open exhaust on it, it needed jetting. The original jets were 130 main and 47.5 idle without bleed holes . A 2mm spacer. The needle has three notches with the clip on the middle one. To cut a long story short I now Have 150 main, 2 washers. The only way  I can get a good tick over is to use the 47.5 with bleed holes. 2.5 turns out. If I put the 52.5 in it will tick over but after a rev, it will stall. The 47.5 works except for a loud bang, not pop when you shut off. The header still goes red when on tick over but I now know that it isn't a stock pipe. Its a single skin stainless pipe  so not too worried about that.

So to summarise
150 main
2 washers
47.5 with bleed holes
2.5 turns out
Testing with no filter as I got fed up taking the hose on and off.
All is well except the bang on shut off. So what do I do next. Its close. Please help.      

Hi lancer. Do you know I was thinking I need a 50 poilet and have been looking. There wasnt one in the kit. If you could send one that would be greate. I can put up with the bang for a while. If you put it in the post and PM me with the price Ill get it off to you soonest.
Thanks againe for all your help. your going on my christmas card list