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I had basically responded to an earlier post and agree with Jim's post. I think we need to make sure we are using oil that has the old type anti-wear in it and that isn't in the current SL rated oils. As soon as the magazine with the article I'm basing my input on gets back to me, I share it with all of you. I'm starting to think Shell Rotella T synthetic or real M/C oil is best. Max

I can't remember just who it was that took the time to visit with me regarding oil, but I am running Rotella -T 15-40 Dino oil. Exceeds API CI-4 (Whatever the HEKK that means) also, the brag sheet states it is up to the CH-4, CG-4 All sorts of these follow along with API SL & SJ for gasoline engines.

Something I've mentioned a couple of times & had no reply to is the idea of soaking the cam chain in oil a while, so it;'s never dry.

Also, I don't know how this would go over in the crankcase with the clutch, but the drive on the Moto Guzzi calls for a bit of Molybdenum to be added to the gear oil. If we dabbed a bit of Moly in with the oil, as long as it doesnt make the clutch slip or jack up the viscosity, would that help anything?

And, the next time I do the chain, I will be looking for someone who can subject the thing to super cold temps. Like liquid nitrogen. This is one site, just google

cryogenic metal engine parts

& check out

http://www.300below.com/site/motorsports.html

Good idea to start a specific topic about this dilemma, that we'll all be in for, sooner or later. As I live in Europe, like some other members, I can give you an opinion that is most common (?) over here.
We don't think it has anything to do with the oil. We seem to have agreed, that synthetic oils are no good for the Savage, since the clutch starts to slip. This does not happen with mineral oil. In my bike I use Quaker State 10 w 40 mineral oil for mc, and I change every 3k kilometer. (Always change the filter when you change the oil, what good is it to have new oil going through a dirty filter?) It seems, from postings I've read during the years, that the old four-gear models did not have this problem. So I think it simply is that Suzuki is buying these parts from another company, and the quality is less good. Pity it seems to be impossible to get in touch with anybody in the company directly !! From what I recall, the "old" Savages did run well without any camchain rattle to about 50k kilometers. I have a chain in my workshop, that is run 60k kms. It is just slightly longer, you can barely see it is worn a bit, so it sure was not bad quality. The chap who had it changed it at 60k kms when it started to rattle. No problems at all before that.
To cope with this "new" problem, brains are working to develop a modified chaintensioner, that will not "pop out".
There are some good pictures at the German site http://www.ls-650.de/community/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1168393837
and at http://www.ls-650.de/Thumperbike/html/body_steuerkettenspanner.html
here is a good picture of Norbert's invention : http://www.ls-650.de/Thumperbike/html/body_steuerkettenspanner_tbks3.html
Soon we will have reports coming in about how well it works.... 8)

The tensioner problems are an inherent, intended design flaw. Once the bike is off warranty, poof ! There goes the chain system, and it's off to the dealer for an expensive repair job.

Nissan did the same thing with the Pulsar many years ago, but they got CAUGHT . The distributors in the cars were designed to implode after no more than 50,000 miles....some made it to 51, but most failed at 49 thou. ( after the 48,000 mile warranty expired ). You could not buy a distributor for the Pulsar from anywhere but a Nissan dealer, at the tune of over 500 bucks.

Nissan got sued for it, and had to pay up, plus fix the design problem...which they did.

I betcha a dollar Suzuki is doing the same thing.

JMHO

I got the OEM, but, the cryo approach is supposed ti increase the life by several times over. Some engines are run 12 times as long as usual ( 2 stroke racing engines) & at tear down need nothing. So, the point I am makind is, a new chain could possibly run about the life of the bike. ! more chain & one 50 $$ treatment & you are done. Hows that sound?