Good Luck, you got this.

So many of us have tried. So much interest and demand for Hot Rod parts someone went through The Science to try to come up with The optimal cam profile. What I don't know is
What is the best dyno  anyone has achieved?
Best timed runs?
Those dang things just seduce a guy into trying just about anything to get another half of a pony.

I installed the PWK38 carb because I literally broke the stock carb..
Okay, Paul, what did you over-torque ?

Thanks Mike.

I hear you on not cheating with the stopwatch.  I did 3 runs this morning doing the 3rd gear testing.  I did a couple 5th gear runs, but the camera somehow shut itself off (I think I bumped it).  So, I'll have to try that again.

Today's runs were 3rd gear from 4K - 6K.  I did hit WOT at about 3500 and rode it through to about 6300.

3 Runs, 3 stopwatch reflex hand/eye coordination tests.  All my times were 4.8 - 5.3 seconds and I got 5.1 seconds six times.  I focused really hard not to cheat.  It was good to see 5.1 seconds pop up 6 out of 9 times (I was looking at the video and not gaming the stopwatch.).

I like your 2 jets up or down suggestion.  I'm pretty sure the 128 is too big.  I really don't want to move the clip - the midrange moderate/normal acceleration is good and I have this terrible fear of being too lean in the midrange where I do 95% of my riding.

It seems it's not going to be jetted much differently than with the stock muffler -- 32PJ, 128MJ, clip in the 2nd grove (leaner).

With the dyna, I have a hunch I'm going to like -- 32PJ, 125MJ, with clip in the middle groove.

So after I complete this set of tests with the carb as is, I'm going to try the 125MJ.  I know that's only 1 size down, but with the stock air filter and muffler, I was happy with a 122MJ.  That would likely be too small/lean with the UNI foam filter and dyna muffler.

Does it make any sense or can it be explained why the the stock muffler would prefer 128MJ, 2nd leanest groove on the clip and the Dyna would prefer 125MJ and middle groove?  In all honestly reflecting back, the 128MJ may have been 1 jet too big with the stock muffler.  

The Dyna is shorter and flows a little better, so is it favoring low/midrange torque whereas the stock muffler is longer, slightly more restictive and allows for a larger main jet but leaner clip position....

Oh - it's an AKASO EK7000 camera.  Nothing really special.  Like $57 on Amazon plus $14ish for a 128mb memory card.  Video quality is pretty decent.  Sound (wind noise) with the built-in microphone is terrible.  Transferring videos to a PC is easy but a bit slow.  I'm still trying to figure out all the features and 497 mounting options (of which none would work to aim it at the tack).  I rigged up a mount with a cheesy handlebar windshield mount that I had laying around, a small worm gear clamp, and 2 zip ties!!  Redneck Engineering at its finest!  

Definitely going in the right direction!  The roll-off of the WOT throttle is much better.  It's still a little rich, but its smooth and not having a spaz attack.

MJ #125
PJ #32
Clip in Middle Groove on the Needle

3rd Gear 4k-6k: 5.1 seconds (unchanged)
4th Gear 3.5k-5k: 5.5 seconds (unchanged)
4th Gear 3.5k-5.5k: 7.7 seconds (-0.5 seconds faster)

I checked my stopwatch skills about 10 times to make sure I wasn't cheating.  It's a ligit 0.5 seconds faster in 4th from 3.5k to 5.0k!  Even if I somehow didn't perform the test exactly the same, I know I'm at least equal or better, and the spaz attack is gone in exchange for a little more rumble on deceleration.

DBM - This seems very similar to the rich issue you encountered near the top of WOT.  To remedy the issue, you installed a JUMBO K&N cone air filter in a modified air box using plumbing supplies (I loved that creativity).  

I think I'm just going to accept these results with the UNI foam filter directly attached to the carb.  I may try a MJ #122, but I'm pretty sure this is where I want it. The afterfire on deceleration creeped in just a little bit, but it's very acceptable where it's at.  No kabooms.

The air flow just can't keep up in the higher RPMs with the larger jet.  The smaller jet is better matched to the UNI air filter.

Fiddling with needed taper, diameter, and length is above my pay grade unless someone tells me the answer.  The needle charts give me a headache trying to figure out which way to go AND not knowing if my current unmarked needle is a "DDJ".  That's my best estimated guess...

It seems to me that you have never really been sure if you are lean or rich.  That's why I suggested that you start by installing a main jet two sizes larger (from a 128 to a 132).  That way you won't hurt it. Immediately going to a 125 was not a prudent move.  You MUST establish if you are rich or lean.  You do that by going to a larger main jet and verifying that it slows down.  Then you will know for sure that you are starting from a rich condition.  It's safer to start from a known rich condition.

The Keihin #125 main jet has the same orifice size as a Mikuni VM #195 jet.  Knowing that you are running a main jet that has an orifice size that would probably be OK in a VM may seem safe, but the PWK uses a giant main air bleed.  So, the Keihin PWK should need a larger main jet orifice size.  

The number designations on the Keihin jet refer to the actual size of the orifice.  A #125 Keihin jet has an orifice that is 1.25mm (.049").  The Mikuni VM jets are flow rated so the numeric designation refers to a volume of fuel over a specific time (milliliters per minute, liters per hour, etc.).  I have no idea what the test parameters are.

I have found that the "D" series needles do not have enough taper.  They will work but you need to use a giant main jet to compensate.  That's because at WOT the aperture between the needle jet and the needle is very close to the cross section of the main jet orifice.  Under that condition, the main jet starts to become ineffective.  The stock carburetor does the same thing.  You reach a point where enlarging the main jet seems to have little or no effect.  So, I switched to "E" series needles a long time ago.  The knockoffs come with a needle that is very close to a DGJ or a DGK.  I have had excellent results with an EGK.  It is perfect.

If you start increasing your main jet size and don't see a marked change in your acceleration time, you probably need an "E" series needle.

Regarding the "very dull blah" and "kinda lugging it" in 5th gear, I made it a point to observe that this morning on my ride to nowhere.  I go WOT at 2500 and it pulls clean and steady all the way through to 6K.  That's in top gear.  I have a 4-speed trans with a 5-speed primary drive and a 25T pulley and a 130/90 Shinko.  I believe my final drive ratio is probably taller than yours but can't be sure.  I assume you have a stock primary drive and a 5-speed trans.  What size front pulley and what size rear tire do you run?

I only have one video of an old 5th gear pull.  That was on a box-stock LS.  I went WOT about 3300 and held it WOT to 5500.  I would have liked to go past 5500 but the turd wouldn't go any faster.  It took an eternity.  But I digress.  The pull was clean all the way.  No hicups, no bog, no blah.  You should be able to whack that sucker WOT from 3000 and get a good clean pull in 5th gear.

Keep up the good work.  Keep us in the loop.  Good luck.