The valve stem tips look a little funky (green circles).  Are they nice and smooth?  Can you get a better picture.  Valve stem tips usually have a nice shiny circle in the center where the adjuster contacts the stem tip.  I can see your adjusters look pretty good, don't know why the stem tips wouldn't be good too.  See if you can clean them off and get a better picture.

The smaller head cover dowel needs to be moved from the head cover to the cylinder head (red circle)

Similar chamfers in the left-hand cam bearing provide lubrication for the exhaust valves and also the left-hand main bearing and balance shaft bearing.  I think you can see that the chamfers are small.   If you get carried away with the sealant, it can squeeze out of the joint and completely fill the chamfers.

I haven’t touched the valves.  I’ll try to clean up with some oil and shammy.  Thanks for telling me to move that dowel to the head.

See how the sealant footprint stays well away from the left-hand cam bearing chamfers.

I have never tried the syringe applicator, but I suspect that you would want to lay a very thin bead just as shown in this picture.  Maybe Dave can comment on whether or not this is suitable.

I like to put four very small dabs of sealant in the o-ring cavity and insert the o-ring.  Let it sit for a day and you won't have to worry about that o-ring dropping out while you are trying to juggle the head cover back in place.

When you are ready to install your cylinder head, you will need to be familiar with the procedure for tightening up the cylinder head fasteners.  In preparation for that, I suggest you get some teflon thread sealant and some anti-seize.  The teflon thread sealant is for the right-rear copper washer, and the anti-seize is for the other three copper washers.  

Permatex PX59214 or Loctite 592 are readily available PTFE thread sealing compounds.  I tested both and achieved similar results.

For anti-seize, Permatex 771 works well, and it is available in small 5 oz. tubes.

The anti-seize and PTFE thread sealant are not for the threads.  They are for the joint between the copper washers and the cylinder head.  This area needs to be lubricated in order to prevent galling.  The threads and nut faces must be lubricated with clean engine oil.  More on this later.

Paul - Good job on your mechanical apprenticeship!

Sorry for being so "missing" in all this fun - I am away with family and the only time I can get on my laptop is at 5AM before the others get up.  My laptop is very cumbersome for dong any kind of photos or editing....I will be home this evening.

DragBikeMike's illustration of how to apply the sealant is good - I do however circle the sealant around the hole at the top right side of the photo, and also a thin strip around the weird shaped O ring.  The syringe I use is about half the diameter of the one Paul showed.....and the tip has a larger opening.  It is easy to hold the syringe with your thumb and last three fingers and I push the syringe with my index finger.  The syringe can be used over and over - you just leave the left over RTV in the syringe and let is cure - then pull out the plunger and the RTV comes out - the RTV doesn't stick to the smooth plastic.....you may have to help it come out of the tip by pushing a wire through.  I will post some photos tomorrow when I am back home.

I really like the Suzukibond for the head cover.  It sets up slower than other RTV products I have used, it is less glossy and seems to have a bit more "solids"  in it, and a tube of it lasts for years without setting up in the tube.  When I buy other RTV products the end of the tube sets up in a very short period of storage, and from then on I have to poke a screwdriver through the side of the tube to get to the uncured RTV.