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R&R Cylinder Head with Tech Assist (Read 1534 times)
DragBikeMike
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Re: R&R Cylinder Head with Tech Assist
Reply #135 - 12/20/23 at 18:15:33
 
I start to fold the tab back with the chisel.  See how nice the tip fits between the tab and the nut.
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Re: R&R Cylinder Head with Tech Assist
Reply #136 - 12/20/23 at 18:16:26
 
I get it started with the chisel.  Fold it back about this far.
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Re: R&R Cylinder Head with Tech Assist
Reply #137 - 12/20/23 at 18:18:24
 
Then finish up with the punch.  The flat tip on the pin punch doesn't cut into the lock tab.  I can usually use the lock tab over several times, but that's not a good practice.  I suggest you get a new one.  A wrinkled-up washer may throw your torque value off.  Better to use a new washer that is nice and smooth.
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Re: R&R Cylinder Head with Tech Assist
Reply #138 - 12/20/23 at 18:22:32
 
When you put it back together, you must fold the lock tab washer over a flat on the nut.  Torque the nut first, then fold the lock tab washer over one of the flats on the nut.  I find that a large Vicegrip Pliers works great for folding the washer over the flat on the nut.
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Re: R&R Cylinder Head with Tech Assist
Reply #139 - 12/20/23 at 18:25:15
 
Thanks Youz Guys!  

Sorry, the washers I'm referring to aren't those big arse washers I put in there temporarily.  I'm talking about when I removed the nuts from the assembly.  There were no washers.  Clymer says there are washers in there.  I'll look it up on a parts diagram.  If there are indeed supposed to be washers in there under the nut hex, somebody has been in this clutch before me and failed to put them back in.

Yeah, I bought 2 different sized big arse washers.  One pair is good fit; the other pair is not.  I'll get that straightened out.  You're right - the socket can't get in there with those big arse washers.

Can I just pry with screwdriver to straighten out that tab on the locking washer under the hub nut?  I could probably straighten it with a wood chisel too.  I just don't want to scar or tear something up.
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Re: R&R Cylinder Head with Tech Assist
Reply #140 - 12/20/23 at 18:31:30
 
The earliest models had washers on the bolts, but later models came with flange bolts.  You have flange bolts, no washer required.

"I just don't want to scar or tear something up."

That's why I suggested using the chisel only to start the bend, then finish up with the flat-tip pin punch.
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Re: R&R Cylinder Head with Tech Assist
Reply #141 - 12/21/23 at 05:27:34
 
Thanks Mike.  Good to know this 2005 S40 has flange bolts and no washers!  This is what happens when you read Clymer word for word!  I’d be completely lost and bum fizzled without your knowledge and help!!

When you say “snag the gear” with your fingers, can you please elaborate?  What the best hand and fingers to get in there?  Do I need to pull the assembly out a bit to get my fingers back there.  My test fingers, with everything still together, seem to think so, or I’m coming at it wrong.

I have a doctor appt this morning and then I want to attempt removal this afternoon.  Thanks.
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Re: R&R Cylinder Head with Tech Assist
Reply #142 - 12/21/23 at 08:50:12
 
Rear brake is fully applied using the adjuster nut.  Wear Index mark (kinda hiding behind axle position, belt tensioner bolt) shows the rear brake shoes still have lots of life left.  (Yay, but I think the brake camshaft pivot is sticking from sitting up.  More fun!)

Getting ready to bump it up into 5th gear.  

I mentioned in my prior post that when I removed the 4 nuts on the plate assembly, the whole thing turned about 1/4" (and the gears) before I held the clutch pack assembly while loosening the bolts.

Any concerns?  I suspect I need to re-verify TDC on the compression stroke before I pull the head cover.  Did I turn it off TDC when the whole apparatus turned?  I can check this myself, but I wanted to throw the question out there for better understanding.
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ThumperPaul
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Re: R&R Cylinder Head with Tech Assist
Reply #143 - 12/21/23 at 11:18:46
 
I have reached frustration level 10.0! in my ignorance!  

I got better-sized temporary washers (I had to go to the hardware store anyway).  I got the lockwasher flattened out without too much anxiety.  The rear brake is locked up.  The rear tire is blocked up nicely with 2x4 secured together.  Bumped up the gear shifter into what I think is 5th gear.

Go to loosen big 32mm nut and the whole motor turns with relative ease.  I can even hear and feel the piston chugging up and down in there.  What the heck?  I go to check the gear shifter --- and it only wants to drop down what I think is 1 gear.  And it's stuck and won't downshift any more.  

I saw Mike's post about jamming a piece of soft copper tubing between the gears, but what's going on?  This thing is loose as a goose.  I don't see or feel any energy trying to move through the belt to the rear wheel.

Should I temporarily put the battery back in and put the gas tank back up there and go back to neutral and try to find 5th gear again?  Maybe I was only able to shift up to 2nd that I thought was fifth and vise versa when I can only seem to downshift 1 gear.  Is it sitting in neutral?

I have no idea where I'm at and what's going on!  I'm stepping away from the bike for now!  I need to chill!  Feeling very concerned and defeated!
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ThumperPaul
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Re: R&R Cylinder Head with Tech Assist
Reply #144 - 12/21/23 at 11:27:28
 
I did a fabulous job blocking the rear wheel with some scrap 2x4s and star bit stinger screws!
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Re: R&R Cylinder Head with Tech Assist
Reply #145 - 12/21/23 at 12:46:32
 
Ok.  Took 10 deep breathes.  I'm in neutral and apparently was in neutral trying to turn the nut.  All that clunking, thinking I was bumping up to 5th gear, was fake noise.  

I can bump it down into 1st with a couple tries, but it won't bump up into 2nd and beyond...  This is with a temporary 10mm bolt (bolt thru the frame that was missing and that Mike saw) holding the foot peg, side stand, and gear shifter bracket in place - so it's not totally wonky .

I could keep trying to find 2nd gear...  But, I'm just gunna stop right here and wait for roadside assistance.

Bike is now sitting in neutral with the battery and gas tank put back away on the bench for the day.
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Re: R&R Cylinder Head with Tech Assist
Reply #146 - 12/21/23 at 15:09:23
 
I bought a couple sweat copper couplings like used for compression fittings in plumbing.  I believe this would be described as "soft" (no technical specs regarding hardness for these suckers).  

I bought a 1/4" and 3/8".  Photo next to a 12mm socket for size reference.  The 1/4 looks like it might get ground into the gears too much.  The 3/8 will be more difficult to get wedged in the gears and grabbed upon.  Which one?

I can only find 1st gear on the bike.  Try 1st gear, with rear brake locked up, rear wheel trapped, and copper coupling?  Bust a nut!

YES, NO???!!
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Re: R&R Cylinder Head with Tech Assist
Reply #147 - 12/21/23 at 16:32:17
 
Stop!  Take a breath.  Do not attempt to place those fittings in your gear mesh, they are too hard.

I apologize.  I did not recognize just how inexperienced you are.  The question regarding the lock tab washer should have been a clear indicator.  Let's slow it down a bit and see if we can't get you back on track.

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Re: R&R Cylinder Head with Tech Assist
Reply #148 - 12/21/23 at 16:41:06
 
A motorcycle has what most mechanics refer to as a "crash box".  It does not have synchronizers.  It just uses dogs on the gears to engage the gear with its respective shaft.  You can't shift through the gears with the rear wheel locked.  You need to rock the vehicle back & forth (forward & backward) in order to move the shifter and transmission through the various gears.  With the rear wheel on the ground and the engine turned off, you need to rock the bike back and forth as you pull up or push down on the shift pedal.  Pull up to move to the next higher gear, push down to move to the next lower gear.  So, if you want to place your motorcycle in 5th gear, you need to release the rear brake, sit on the bike, and move it back and forth while pulling up on the shift pedal.  It will be very evident when the transmission slips into the next gear.  If it is currently in neutral, you have to advance the transmission into 2nd, then 3rd, then 4th, and finally 5th gear.
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Re: R&R Cylinder Head with Tech Assist
Reply #149 - 12/21/23 at 16:47:46
 
If you are in a situation where you can't get on the bike and move it back & forth, you can accomplish the same thing if you jack it up and get the rear wheel off the ground.  Then rotate the rear wheel back and forth by hand.  We're not talkin full rotations of the wheel, just bump it back and forth enough to slightly rotate the trans shafts while you are pulling up on the shifter pedal.

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« Last Edit: 12/21/23 at 17:48:40 by DragBikeMike »  

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