A series of photos of the cam chain tensioner.  Is this a stock tensioner or some version of a Verslavy?  

With the CCT removed and easier to measure, it appears closer to 17mm extended instead of 18mm as originally reported.

Bottomside of CCT.  Is this maxed out.  Riding a bit cockeyed...???

Another measure from the top side of the CCT at 17.1mm.  I think it's stock, but finding good detailed photos of a stock CCT are eluding me.

It occurred to me that maybe I should have given you a little more detail regarding the clutch and the oil pump drive.

Don’t be intimidated by the clutch.  Yes, you could get the head off with the rear guide still in place, but it’s difficult with the engine in the frame.  You have come this far, you might as well finish up.  You will learn a lot.  Make it easy on yourself; leave the “clumsy and awkward” to the more seasoned wrench turners.

Your endoscope is killer good.  The pics are very clear.  You happen to have the manufacturer and model number for that item?  Will it work with an iPad or is it strictly for an Android?  Great shot of the cam lobe, and your ports are super-clean.

You stated:

“I see no visible difference in the stock vs Sneeze cam release that would suggest a different length push rod is needed.”

The slightest variation in that release cam has a significant effect on pushrod length.  The play in the fit, the radius, depth and surface finish of the ball socket, the angle of the fit vs lever, all can affect pushrod length.  Check it now.  It’s like a ten-minute job.  If you need a longer or shorter rod better to know now so you can get it ordered.  After you get the clutch apart, you will know if you need to replace any parts.  If you need a different pushrod and you can get it ordered…..or…..you can do what I did and just order the other two sizes so you have all three on hand.

Did you try to check the play in the release cam by holding it against the stop in the clutch cover?  Is it reasonably tight or is there a lot of lost motion?

Your CCT is a stock tensioner, it’s jammed, and I think you should replace it with the gold standard Verslagen unit.  The rear guide has probably straightened out, but the Verslagy tensioner will take care of that.

But if the gear is installed backwards, you can still get things back together.  However, the drive pin is not captured.  It’s gonna fall out and the drive gear will not turn with the clutch.  To make things even worse, the gear teeth will be rubbing on the engine case.  That would be very bad.  See how the pin is not captured when the gear is installed backwards.  Pay attention to how the gear goes on the clutch basket.  Don’t install it like this.

When you are working on the clutch, the temporary washers along with the springs allow you to remove the clutch pack all in one piece.  See how you have access to the clutch hub nut.  Once you remove that nut, the whole disk pack can be removed.  Also note how the outermost fiber disk is out-of-position.  Don’t be alarmed if that outermost fiber moves around, the wave washer assembly will keep the outermost fiber free until all four springs apply sufficient force to collapse the wave washer.

Lay it on the work bench like this.

The first fiber plate was .116”, right on the factory spec.  The remaining standard fiber plates were also .116”, and the special fiber plate (outermost) was .136” (the outer plate is thicker and has a larger ID to accommodate the wave washer).  All the fibers were right on the factory spec for new plates.