I think my confusion is that the solid black looks like it is connected to that black/white ground at the connection immediately below the signal on the diagram. Do you know why that is Dave?

That's what I was thinking!!!!!! Sick! Thanks Dave makes sense now.

The red/black wire for the horn has power to it - when you push the horn button is grounds the horn wire......the turn signal should not be connected to that wire.

Move your red circle straight up to the other side of the black rectangle....the black/white and black wire are reversed in this location.

The blue wire that comes from the turn signal flasher has power to it - the power comes from the brown wire that is the running light circuit.  From the turn signal switch you can follow the green wire for the right turn signal, and the black wire for the left turn signal.....those colors should stay intact all the way to the turn signal socket.

I believe the diagram should look like the image below.  This keeps the right turn signal wires together at the connector.....and also the left turn signal wires at the connector.  It also provides the black/white ground wire to enter at the center of the turn signal graphic that is consistent with the rear turn signals as well.....the rears are only different because they don't have running lights.  (Sorry about the quality....I am a better mechanic than I am a graphic artist).

I think the turn signal indicator diagram is OK.

There is only a single indicator light that works for both the left and right signals.  To allow this to happen - the little light uses the turn signal circuit for the other side as the ground.

So.....you turn the right signal on, and power goes to the signal indicator through the green wire.....then it uses the black wire as a ground by sending the current to the front and rear left signals.  The amount of current required by the indicator light is so small it doesn't cause the front/rear turn signals filaments to glow.

The opposite happens when you turn on the left turn signal.  The power goes to the indicator light through the black wire, and the green wire sends the current to the front and rear right turn signal bulbs - but once again they don't glow as the current is too small to get them powered up.

Alright, here's my mock up for the new control switches/ bar. Not perfect but I think I did OK, was my first time running wiring through bars/ drilling into bars etc. silicone behind the switch housing to compensate for a very small gap. Hoping the switches hold up, well see I guess kind of at the point of no return on this project.

I don't believe the black wire for the headlight (ground) needs to pass through the headlight dimmer switch.

No horn or turn signals?  (Both of those are required to be road legal where I live.....without those you are likely to get pulled over at some point).

Vers that failure is caused by the decomp controller getting stuck, right? If I pull the controller like in the diagram mockup I made above it shouldn't be possible anymore is my thinking, what do you think?

Dave, what are horns and turn signals?

Alright,

I'm basically finished with how I want to tackle this wiring -- the one issue that is sticking out to me is the dimmer switch/ highbeam/lowbeam switch.

Is this a SPDT type switch? either high or low are on at all times? when the highbeam is on, is the lowbeam off? if so, I'm planning on replacing it with a mini toggle switch on the back of the headlight, where I'm also putting my neutral indicator light.