Yo Savages,

I'm switching out my right hand controls for a simple SPDT switch and momentary button (not running the hazard lights).

While reviewing wiring diagrams and trying to design this mod, I noticed that the most late model year of the savage has different wiring for the RH switches. As you can see from this image, The starter switch receives 4 wires, as opposed to only 2 on previous model years. The switch for the start button is unchanged.

What is the deal with these other two wires??  I'm trying to figure out what the two extra wires are and what I can do with them if I want to put on this simple toggle.

The switch I'm trying to mount is this one -- trying to use the hi/low toggle as the starter switch and the horn button as the starter.

https://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/collections/motorcycle-switches/products/cycle...

Thanks guys

The later bikes turn off the headlight when the starter button is pushed.

If you just splice the y/w and O wires together your headlight will stay on when you hit the starter button......just like the earlier bikes.

Before I spend money on a clamp meter...

Does anyone know what the amperage running through the kill switch and start button? I'm assuming its pretty minimal but want to make sure, I'm considering some switches that have maximum capacities of between 4-6 amps.

haha sorry dave my dyslexia is working overtime these days   must be all the head injuries.

I may update this thread with the wiring mods once I get things bolted up -- the world of aftermarket switches is full of Chinese trickery and subterfuge, trying to track down some cheap, minimal and ergonomic options.

Update here --

Before mocking up, I've decided I'm removing the decomp solenoid -- I know this can be accomplished simply by pulling it at the connection.

But what about the relay? I'm assuming this relay manages power to the starter switch and therefore if it's removed, an equivalent relay would need to be installed so that the switches don't get burnt out. Is this correct? Or is it possible to just splice power from the starter relay to the clutch lever position sensor?

Dave thank you so much I couldn't find this thread before you posted it. Huge help seriously.

The damage to the starter teeth and engine case on the early bikes without the torque limiter does not happen during the starting process - it happens when shutting the bike down,  There have been a few times I have turned my bike off and as the engine comes to a stop it comes up against the compression - and I hear a strange sound as the piston kicks backward and the torque limiter engages and slips to relieve the force.

What happens at startup without the automatic compression release is that most times the engine will turn over just fine when you hit the starter button and fire right up (with a good battery in warm weather).  Every so often the engine stopped on the compression stroke when you last shut it down, and when you hit the starter button the starter cannot get it pushed over TDC and stalls.  When this happens you can release the starter button -then wait a brief moment and hit the starter button again (once or twice) - and it will go past TDC and start normally.

I have a manual compression release and most times I don't need to use it - and I have a Wiseco 95mm with 9.2:1 compression (stock is 8.5:1).  When it really does come in handy is if you happen to stall the bike in traffic and need to restart the bike immediately without any delay - then a handlebar mounted compression release is very convenient!

For Suzuki black is not always ground.  The solid black wire is the turn signal.  The black with the white is the ground.  The grey is the running light.