Test your kick stand and clutch switches, those will cut spark

Leaving the key on can cook one

Oh boy here we go, had to write a letter to Suzuki Motor USA Just to get my cdi block. Didn’t even have an eta from the dealer. Anyways, I finally got my part. Replaced it, and now it’s clicking and turning over. Gonna try and find what’s wrong on Tuesday. I’m thinking it might need some serious help

Battery was dead lol, I charged it, made sure all my connections were secure. I am still not getting a spark. I have a new plug, it isn’t showing up on the voltmeter… could the new plug be bad? Idk if there a better way to test the plug specifically but I’ve tested the wires and the boot and they both seem within range.

I’m at a loss, no idea where to go next. Any help would be appreciated greatly  

This is a typical result when you start throwing parts at a problem without proper diagnostics. The CDI is the LAST place I’d check. You might start by checking continuity of the spark plug lead, the primary and secondary resistance of the coil. Or how about this one, are you getting 12v at the lead of the coil. The cost of these simple checks are $0, and they will produce usefull information.

If you aren’t getting 12v at the coil, the question becomes “why”.

Sakitiat wrote on 09/18/21 at 12:40:46:

I’ve tested the coil from power to trigger for 4.6 kohms. Seems normal. Tested the boot through the coil for 23 kohms which idk a lot about but I guess it might be a little high. Then I put the plug in and tested the whole thing for 27 ohms.

I went back through this thread looking for a tid-bit of info.

When the Primary coil is tested the result should be between 1-7 ohms. Are you sure that you got 4,600 ohms?

There are two leads that go to the coil. One is orange/white and the other is blue/yellow. With the ignition switch in the ON position you should see 12V on the orange/white wire.

If you do not have 12V then something in the chain is not correct. Most likely is the stop engine switch on the throttle quadrant. I would disassemble the the switch and clean the leads. You might also disconnect the CDI and inspect the orange/white wire for damage or corrosion.

I believe that the blue/yellow wire should show continuity to ground...I'm not certain on that because it is the trigger from the CDI.

Double check your resistance on the coil to make sure you didn't mean to type 4.6 ohms. Then check for 12v power. If both of those check out, then check your HT lead for continuity.

Gary_in_NJ wrote on 03/14/22 at 07:24:02:


Primary coil is reading 4.5 ohms, not kohms

I’m getting 11.4 volts on the orange/white wire with the key on

Spark plug is reading 4.4 ohms

How do I test the HT lead?  I tried touching one end of it to ground and am not getting anything…. The wire itself is good from the coil to the cdi block if that’s what you mean

Thanks, Sak

Sakitiat wrote on 04/12/22 at 20:58:58:

I’m getting 11.4 volts on the orange/white wire with the key on

Assuming that your battery is healthy and has a static voltage of 12.6 or so, you have over a 1V drop between the battery and the coil. No Bueno. It should only be 0.5V or so. The likely source of the voltage drop is the STOP switch up by the throttle. Disassemble the housing and clean the contacts with some fine sandpaper.

Sakitiat wrote on 04/12/22 at 20:58:58:

How do I test the HT lead?  I tried touching one end of it to ground and am not getting anything…. The wire itself is good from the coil to the cdi block if that’s what you mean

Continuity is all you need to check on the lead. Move it around as you check it to ensure that there isn't an intermittent problem.