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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Not petc0ck? /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1629438413 Message started by Sakitiat on 08/19/21 at 22:46:53 |
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Title: Not petc0ck? Post by Sakitiat on 08/19/21 at 22:46:53 Howdy y’all, just bought a 2012 boulevard s40 for my first bike ;D and while I fell in love with her on the test drive, she is looking like quite a bit of a project after only a month… Some background info: I live in western Washington, bike has 6,000 miles on it, and the previous owner ~said~ the bike tends to backfire quite a bit although he never experienced any other problems (liar?) Anyways.. test drive was amazing. Couple loud, gunshot like backfires on the downshift, but I thought it sounded cool and would be fun to play around with as he said there weren’t any engine troubles despite the backfiring. However, once I took it home, I started to get more issues… For example, the bike died on the road once when slowing down from 50 to turn off the highway, and once more when coming to a stop at a red light. (Also coming from going about 50). I figured I might have messed up shifting the first time, as I had no problem starting back up again. And the second time proved troublesome so I switched to reserve at which point she started and got me home (another 15 minutes on the freeway). Over the next few weeks, I took her out twice to experience some heightened backfiring, sputtering, loss of power, and even a couple of shut offs while on the freeway. Some light research on the forum led me to believe the petc0ck was at fault. I pulled the vacuum hose to find it had ripped on the carb end… I thought I found my answer, but even after trimming it and retightening I was experiencing the same issues :'( Next step, prime & cap. After setting to prime and capping/clamping the hose shut I could barely go around my neighborhood before the engine failed in a flurry of backfires. At this point I’m stumped. I pulled the carb and cleaned (it didn’t look bad), replaced the spark [ch9889][ch65039] Plug (showed lean), recharged the battery, ran it with the fuel cap off, everything I could think of and everything I could try from online. I’m at a loss. In her current state, she runs fine cold, no backfires, no stuttering. But as soon as she warms up, I can’t even turn the throttle a quarter of the way before the engine cuts out and won’t start up again. I’m forced to wait ~10 minutes for her to cool down enough to start back up. :-/ Right now I’m looking to replace the vacuum hose entirely, maybe trimming it was a bad idea… any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Sak |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Gary_in_NJ on 08/20/21 at 04:36:59 Smell your oil. If it smells like fuel, it’s the petcock. Regarding the stalling while coming to a stop, I assume you had the clutch in. So the stalling wouldn’t be unusual if the petcock had failed, or if the idle is set too low. |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Sakitiat on 08/20/21 at 18:12:29 313B3F353E37333A646266560 wrote:
Yup, just ordered a raptor, thank you! |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Serowbot on 08/21/21 at 07:31:04 Interesting thread title. I detest those stupid vacuum petcocks. :P |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by verslagen1 on 08/21/21 at 09:16:59 6C5E54564B565E4B3F0 wrote:
Can be an air leak in the exhaust. Check with a candle around the header and muffler connections. Quote:
Can be a low idle speed setting, adjust it up a little. Quote:
Most likely petcock and/or vacuum hose. the petcock is 10 years old and that's when they go bad. Quote:
Try not to run it too long at a standstill and put a block under the sidestand so it's nearly vertical. Otherwise to starve half the cam for oil. Sometimes a piece of 2x4 is good sometimes you need a little more. You want it tall enough to minimize the lean, but not so much that the wind will blow it over. You can use the block while you're checking the oil too. |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by zipidachimp on 08/21/21 at 11:45:23 Tighten battery cables, white spacer mod, rejet carb, raise idle speed. I live north of you, solved all my problems from this forum. Once pushed my bike home because of loose battery cable. Cheers! 8-) |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Sakitiat on 08/24/21 at 22:23:13 455641405F5254565D02330 wrote:
Was waiting for the raptor to come in before starting up so I pulled off the exhaust to check for carbon buildup and the engine started leaking [ch129394] |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by ohiomoto on 08/25/21 at 15:26:24 Leaking what from where??? As gary said, it sounds like the classic petcock issue. Start with that before you do anything else. The only things you should check at this point is your oil and air filter. Sometimes these items will flooded with gas if the petcock fail and your float needle lets that fuel flood into your engine and airbox. I would recommend NOT doing anything until you get the petcock. The problem is once you start messing with stuff, you might not be able to narrow down your problem. Now is NOT the time to rejet the bike. Now is NOT the time to clean the carb. Replace the pectock and see if it fixes your porblem. |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Sakitiat on 09/14/21 at 19:27:30 Ok, replaced the petcock. Still not starting… Looks like there’s something wrong with the spark plug |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Hiko on 09/14/21 at 20:02:11 When I first bought my bike Motor ran fine trailered it home then it spluttered and misfired on first try at home then it died All it was was a loose spark plug. |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Sakitiat on 09/16/21 at 17:40:26 Ok, turns out the new plug I got had a cap over the top… but even after taking it off I’m not getting a spark >:( is it possible I messed something up in the boot trying to jam my capped plug in? |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Dave on 09/16/21 at 17:47:33 Is the little rocker switch on the right handlebar control turned to the "RUN" position? :-? |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Sakitiat on 09/16/21 at 19:35:53 ;D Yeah it’s turning over but not starting. Pulled out the spark & boot and tried to start it holding it next to the block but couldn’t see any spark. Tested the boot with a voltmeter and it seems to be ok |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Gary_in_NJ on 09/17/21 at 04:28:12 Try a different spark plug. |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Sakitiat on 09/18/21 at 12:40:46 Ok, new ngk spark plug, still nothing. I’ve tested the coil from power to trigger for 4.6 kohms. Seems normal. Tested the boot through the coil for 23 kohms which idk a lot about but I guess it might be a little high. Then I put the plug in and tested the whole thing for 27 ohms. Furthermore I pulled off the little black brick that the wires end up running to and it looks like there might have been a short/bad connection because it was a little blackened when I pulled the cap off. So I cleaned it up and reconnected but I’m still not getting a spark. Not sure how to test this brick or even what it is. Any help would be greatly appreciated ;D |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Yoshi on 09/21/21 at 05:13:41 Test your kick stand and clutch switches, those will cut spark |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Sakitiat on 11/01/21 at 17:23:26 Ok, looks like the problem is a fried CDI ECU. Not sure how it went bad but I will be replacing with a part from eBay (wish me luck) as Suzuki does not have any in stock and do not have an estimated time available due to coronavirus |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by justin_o_guy2 on 11/01/21 at 18:34:48 Leaving the key on can cook one |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by SoC on 11/01/21 at 20:52:37 Did you check your battery? My 2011 had an old poorly maintained AMG battery when I bought it, and the previous owner had installed a slightly oversized to run accessory plug for a heated jacket for winter riding. Bike always ran sketchy until finally battery crapped out from lack of maintenance charging. With new battery it runs much better. |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Sakitiat on 03/06/22 at 22:18:40 Oh boy here we go, had to write a letter to Suzuki Motor USA Just to get my cdi block. Didn’t even have an eta from the dealer. Anyways, I finally got my part. Replaced it, and now it’s clicking and turning over. Gonna try and find what’s wrong on Tuesday. I’m thinking it might need some serious help |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/06/22 at 23:28:48 You are fighting yourself if you don't have a healthy, fully charged battery in it. And When you crank it for a while, not seconds, not a minute,, but when you have challenged the battery hard And it doesn't start Charge it. You can get a test light now that has a digital readout. Watching the voltage under load is important. If it's down around ten point five, it's not going to fire the plug. |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Sakitiat on 03/13/22 at 16:39:53 Battery was dead lol, I charged it, made sure all my connections were secure. I am still not getting a spark. I have a new plug, it isn’t showing up on the voltmeter… could the new plug be bad? Idk if there a better way to test the plug specifically but I’ve tested the wires and the boot and they both seem within range. I’m at a loss, no idea where to go next. Any help would be appreciated greatly ;D |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Sakitiat on 03/13/22 at 16:41:19 5A5B5E4C4F4C435E46442D0 wrote:
Bike isn’t even starting, the battery may not be great but I’m not even getting a spark |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/13/22 at 17:41:48 This is a typical result when you start throwing parts at a problem without proper diagnostics. The CDI is the LAST place I’d check. You might start by checking continuity of the spark plug lead, the primary and secondary resistance of the coil. Or how about this one, are you getting 12v at the lead of the coil. The cost of these simple checks are $0, and they will produce usefull information. If you aren’t getting 12v at the coil, the question becomes “why”. |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/13/22 at 19:59:45 3A252324393E0F3F0F37252962500 wrote:
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/14/22 at 07:24:02 13212B2934292134400 wrote:
I went back through this thread looking for a tid-bit of info. When the Primary coil is tested the result should be between 1-7 ohms. Are you sure that you got 4,600 ohms? There are two leads that go to the coil. One is orange/white and the other is blue/yellow. With the ignition switch in the ON position you should see 12V on the orange/white wire. If you do not have 12V then something in the chain is not correct. Most likely is the stop engine switch on the throttle quadrant. I would disassemble the the switch and clean the leads. You might also disconnect the CDI and inspect the orange/white wire for damage or corrosion. I believe that the blue/yellow wire should show continuity to ground...I'm not certain on that because it is the trigger from the CDI. Double check your resistance on the coil to make sure you didn't mean to type 4.6 ohms. Then check for 12v power. If both of those check out, then check your HT lead for continuity. |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Sakitiat on 03/15/22 at 13:13:36 Thank you, you guys are being extremely helpful. I’ll be working on it later today. Hopefully I’ll have an update by the end of the night. :D |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Sakitiat on 04/12/22 at 20:58:58 6F65616B60696D643A3C38080 wrote:
Primary coil is reading 4.5 ohms, not kohms I’m getting 11.4 volts on the orange/white wire with the key on Spark plug is reading 4.4 ohms How do I test the HT lead? I tried touching one end of it to ground and am not getting anything…. The wire itself is good from the coil to the cdi block if that’s what you mean Thanks, Sak |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Dave on 04/13/22 at 02:16:44 4F7D777568757D681C0 wrote:
What does the voltage read when the starter button is pushed and the engine is turning over? |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/13/22 at 08:24:22 5062686A776A6277030 wrote:
Assuming that your battery is healthy and has a static voltage of 12.6 or so, you have over a 1V drop between the battery and the coil. No Bueno. It should only be 0.5V or so. The likely source of the voltage drop is the STOP switch up by the throttle. Disassemble the housing and clean the contacts with some fine sandpaper. 5062686A776A6277030 wrote:
Continuity is all you need to check on the lead. Move it around as you check it to ensure that there isn't an intermittent problem. |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Sakitiat on 04/17/22 at 20:21:11 556E6374656972746F676A75060 wrote:
It drops to 10.5 even after I’ve cleaned the kill switch connection |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/18/22 at 05:38:23 What is the voltage at the battery when you make this measurement. I just want to be sure that your battery isn't down to 11VDC. |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Sakitiat on 04/20/22 at 18:21:59 12.3 v on the battery |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by buster6315 on 05/12/22 at 11:47:40 23302726393432303B64550 wrote:
Can be an air leak in the exhaust. Check with a candle around the header and muffler connections. Quote:
Can be a low idle speed setting, adjust it up a little. Quote:
Most likely petcock and/or vacuum hose. the petcock is 10 years old and that's when they go bad. Quote:
Try not to run it too long at a standstill and put a block under the sidestand so it's nearly vertical. Otherwise to starve half the cam for oil. Sometimes a piece of 2x4 is good sometimes you need a little more. You want it tall enough to minimize the lean, but not so much that the wind will blow it over. You can use the block while you're checking the oil too.[/quote] I've got a 2008 that is experiencing weird symptons. It will only run properly with the petcock on reserve. What goes bad in this assembly, anyway? Easier to replace entire unit? How to access the unit? It began acting up last fall before I put it away. Thank you! |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by verslagen1 on 05/12/22 at 13:23:08 3C2B2D2A3B2C686D6F6B5E0 wrote:
2008, 14 years old, diaphragm gets hard, cracks, leaks fuel into the intake. Or the vac line gets hard, cracks, leaks air and the petcock doesn't open. You can pay $20 for a repair kit or $20 for a new manual petcock. I've done both. |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by buster6315 on 05/12/22 at 15:41:46 Where can I get these items from please? |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by Sakitiat on 05/12/22 at 16:42:39 42555354455216131115200 wrote:
Here’s where I got my manual replacement https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/5LP-24500-01-00 |
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Title: Re: Not petc0ck? Post by buster6315 on 05/12/22 at 19:42:08 Thanks! |
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