Armen
Serious Thumper
Offline
Half-Witted Wrench-Jockey from Jersey
Posts: 1432
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A bit of history: A million years ago I built an SR500 for a bud that raced it in SOS. Didn't like the automatic cam chain tensioner, as it seemed to me that at full chat, the chain would be pushing back on the tensioner and allowing the chain to flap around. Dismembered the tensioner, and made it manual (bolt and locknut pushing on the chain guide). What I needed was a way to know how tight the chain was getting. I poked a hole in the cylinder on the back side of the cam chain tunnel near the tensioner. Then, we got the bike up to running temp, I removed the cover, and looked through the hole to see how tight the chain was, and adjusted accordingly. Easy, as the tensioner was out in the breeze. I'm converting my Savage cam chain tensioner to semi-atomantic. Pulled the pawl, and am inserting a length or round stock inside the spring to limit the amount of travel back (loosening) that the tensioner has. So, once again, how tight is tight enough? So, I figured I'd do a similar gag on this bike as I did on the SR. For reasons that escape me, I had made a 22x1.5mm flanged nut on the CNC mill. Chalk it up to boredom. I honestly don't remember what this was supposed to fit, so it made the perfect sacrificial nut. Checked on Ebay and found an corresponding aluminum drain plug (with magnet) from the Hu Brung Poo machine works in China for only $5, delivered! Didn't really want a magnet catching stray metal bits, so I bored out the backside of the plug, saving myself precious milligrams! Here is the plug and nut assembled:
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