Nope, not magnetic. Kinda looks like valve stem and head to me.

Ended up finding a couple more chunks and got the whole case cleaned up good. It's been sealed and torqued back up, and now I just wait for all of my gaskets and parts that I broke to arrive (namely the clutch pressure disk).

The carb is already cleaned and rebuilt, so I guess it's time to keep wiping down the rest of it.  

When you get to do the compression test that will tell you if the cam is off and the valve timing is not ok, but in the meantime try jumping the bike with a car battery and see what happens. Don't have the car running though.

How long will the bike battery crank the bike before it poops out ? A weak battery will crank the bike engine for a short while but wont fire the plug when the plug is in the head.

Ok, so I definitely did not have the valve clearance set right the first time. I kept wondering about this freeplay I should be feeling in the rocker arms that wasn't there, and I ended up loosening the adjuster screws real far on the intake side and did find I could jiggle it. After a little research on the forum, I found one of the valve clearance adjustment threads, and got it with the correct amount of jiggle this time.

I put the covers back on and did a compression test (turns out Oreilly's has a set of adapters ). I got it to read 100psi a couple of times with the throttle wide open. I know you're supposed to do this on a warm engine, but obviously I can't. Is that enough to get it started?

It's still cranking over like an old dog though. Going to take it to an auto place to load test it today or tomorrow. All tests were done with a fully charged and full battery.

It should be between 140-200 according to the Clymer manual, but I'm also trying to consider that the engine is cold and not broken in.

That's definitely what it means. Cranks super slow with the sparkplug or compression tester in, maybe 3/4 of a second per crank. Spins seemingly normal with no sparkplug in.

Full disclosure: the battery did tip over on my way home from picking it up. I bought more acid and refilled it to the top line, but maybe I didn't do it right?

Yeah, I'll pull the truck battery out and try that. I just hate having both vehicles inoperable at the same time when there's a child to haul around haha. I'll report back later in the week.

Justin, please don't reply unless it's 1) in complete sentences and 2) at least helpful. If you read back, there is fuel going to the float bowl, and it is combusting in the cylinder. Obviously I'm not just leaning on the battery and starter, but you do use both of those things if you want to start the bike. I put it back on the trickle charger whenever I'm done working on it. Also, it was put together with assembly lube and the oil was added through the valve inspection covers per I think OldFellers timing chain replacement write up, so it's not dry.

oldNslow, if I connect the battery directly to the starter, and it spins it under compression (with the ignition coil removed), would that indicate the battery doesn't have enough juice to do both the starter and the spark?

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That won't tell you anything.

You said the plug fires when it is out of the head . That indicates that there is nothing wrong with your ignition module, the coil or the plug. With the plug out there is no compression and the starter isn't loading the battery and drawing the current down below the level that the ignition system requires to fire the plug.

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When the plug is screwed into he head, and the starter is turning over the engine against compression, a battery that is weak, or not fully charged, isn't capable of (1) spinning the engine over fast enough and  (2) supplying enough current to the ignition module to cause the coil to fire the plug.

If you can figure out a way to hook your multimeter leads to the bike battery, or get someone to hold them for you, take a voltage reading with the bike off. A good, fully charged battery should read round 12.75V. If you have just removed the battery from a charger and it reads 13V or more then turn the ignition switch on for a minute o two to get rid of the surface charge.

Then hit the starter button. Like Gary said, if the voltage drops below 11V the plug isn't going to fire.

Or jump it from your truck battery.

If the truck battery starts the bike you are all set. Your bike battery is the problem.

before I hit post I just went back and saw this:

"
Full disclosure: the battery did tip over on my way home from picking it up. "

New battery ?

Tried to fire it up with the truck battery but didn't get it going. It cranked over normally though, so I think the battery I have is bad.

I installed the Raptor petcock while I was rebuilding the engine, and that is set to On and I have a vacuum plug on the other side of the carb. Gas is in the tank.