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frozen rotor bolt (Read 264 times)
Jeff71
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I'm a bike noob!!!!!

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Re: frozen rotor bolt
Reply #30 - 03/25/15 at 08:50:55
 
I've used the impact tool before. Craftsman; wore that thing out in one season working on my VWs!. I should get a new one.
I HAD a 6mm 3/8" socket but torqued the tip about 30* so it doesn't fit things anymore. Huh
I'm going to let it soak for a good week with the acetone combo, give it a few raps and then see what it feels like. I won't be working on the bike for a few days anyway. (Finals, grades and next term prep gets CRAZY!)
Jeff
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Yeah, like I have any clue what is going on....
http://myrycabuild.weebly.com
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Art Webb
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Re: frozen rotor bolt
Reply #31 - 03/25/15 at 12:03:56
 
Dave wrote on 03/25/15 at 02:58:58:
If you are going to be hammering on tools.....this is the most productive tool to own.  I don't know how you ever get the Phillips head screws out of an engine case on a motorcycle without one of these.  Only $ 23 at Sears....and yes Harbor Freight most likely has a cheap version for less.

It works with the screw inserts, or any 3/8" drive socket.  You really need one of these if you are going to work on motorcycles...it was one of the first tools I ever owned, and I am still using the one I bought in 1972.  (Although I have had to buy a few replacement bits over the years).

You just insert the bit of your choice and place it on the fastener, hold onto the tool with your left hand like you are trying to turn the tool in the direction of removal and hold it tightly into the fastener, and then hit the end hard with a hammer.  The tool transforms the impact force into a rotational force.  The tool will work in either direction, and you have to make sure the tool is set for the direction you want it to move by twisting the tool in the direction you want to go.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUOghfo7VGI



If you own a motorcycle, especially one with the 'phillips' screws that are NOT philips,you need one of these babies, they are worth their weight
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justin_o_guy2
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What happened?

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Re: frozen rotor bolt
Reply #32 - 03/25/15 at 12:37:22
 
The HF version I have required being disassembled and the internal ramps smoothed out. They are especially good for screws, because driving in helps keep the screwdriver tip in the screw. And on a stuck bolt you're getting the rotation AND vibration all at once..
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The people never give up their liberties but under some delusion.- Edmund Burke.
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Jeff71
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Re: frozen rotor bolt
Reply #33 - 04/09/15 at 18:51:05
 
Hey guys,
About 2 weeks ago I was spraying a bit of PB blaster on the bolt and giving it a few light taps with my brass mallet. I gave it one last soak and then went to Tucson for 10 days (ahhhhhhh....). Came back Sunday, gave it another treatment Monday and bought a 6mm 3/8" drive allen today. Put the wrench on it and gently tapped it FORWARD then backwards to see if I could shock it a little. It did the trick. It was crazy tight but it came out. It was covered with a lot of pink looking (loctite?) stuff. I cleaned everything up, swapped the rotor to the new wheel and got my front end up and going. Spins true! Need to check the balance yet though. Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions! Cool
Jeff
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Yeah, like I have any clue what is going on....
http://myrycabuild.weebly.com
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swing69
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Re: frozen rotor bolt
Reply #34 - 04/09/15 at 19:24:34
 
"pink"?????????     in loctite terms:  blue is normally med. strength, red is high strength.  Factory screws have a chalky tinge of the threads, the factory threadlocker (if used).

Sounds to me like someone was in there as some point and used "red".

That normally requires heat to remove.  I'd say you got lucky if that was the case!  anyhow.  glad you're home free now.
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