Hey gang,
Pulling the front rotor off to swap to my new wheel. Got 3 of the 4 bolts off but actually shattered my 6mm allen wrench on the last one. I've soaked the bolt with PB Blaster and tapped it a few times to get the harmonics going through it. Tried it tonight but it isn't budging. I'm worried about snapping the bolt off. Is it possible to put a "little" heat on the threads to expand it a little or would it make the metal too brittle/soft? Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
Jeff

Hence the reason I'm asking. I have time, so if it needs a bit of time for penetrating oil to soak in, no problem. Any advice is appreciated!
Jeff

If the problem is the threadlocker.....maybe the best thing to do is make up your own penetrating oil using 50% Acetone and 50% ATF.  It is supposed to be the best penetrating oil around....and maybe the Acetone can loosen up the threadlocker.  It is a shame that only the backside of the threads can be accessed....I don't think you will have any luck getting the penetrating oil to go anywhere using the front side...although if some seeps under the bolt head that would help reduce the friction between the bolt head and disc.  You might try cleaning up the area really good to get the oil off, then use some RTV silicone to glue a short piece of tubing onto the hub....then when the RTV has cured you can lay the wheel rotor side down - and put the Acetone/ATF mix into the tube so that it can seep down into the hole for an extended period.  Laying the wheel where it can get sunlight and periods of heating/cooling cycles will also help.  You can also use a hair dryer or low heat from a heat gun to apply some heat to the hub...but not a torch at this point.  You have a lot of other work to do and you can let it sit for a long time to soak....and you should buy an allen bit set for your 3/8" ratchet wrench (6mm at a minimum) - as it will allow you to keep the bit fully seated in the bolt head while you are applying lots of pressure on the ratchet...the tiny L shaped allen wrench won't allow you to apply pressure evenly.  


As a last resort....Heat should be applied to the aluminum hub at the point where the bolt goes through the hub (keep the flame off the end of the bolt as much as possible)....unfortunately aluminum transfers heat incredibly fast....so the heat is going to go everywhere including to the bearings, seals and grease in the hub.  The clear coat is also not going to like all that heat.  If you are working in the 50 degree garage....maybe try a heat gun before you attempt a torch of any kind.

Good Luck...take your time and don't rush it.

Dave wrote on 03/24/15 at 04:32:58:

you should buy an allen bit set for your 3/8" ratchet wrench (6mm at a minimum) - as it will allow you to keep the bit fully seated in the bolt head while you are applying lots of pressure on the ratchet...the tiny L shaped allen wrench won't allow you to apply pressure evenly.

This!

Over the years I've purchased a lot of "specialty" tools and I'd have to say the a hex set for a 3/8" drive is amongst my favorite (T-Handles too). You can get greater leverage (especially if using a breaker bar) and most importantly, you can use a torque wrench to apply the proper seating torque - this way you'll never go through these types of frozen bolt scenarios again (I know this one was by the factory - but nothing's worse then creating your own).

So let it soak, and go buy the right tools - and you'll be good to go.

And, sometimes tightening just a hair....

Gary_in_NJ wrote on 03/24/15 at 05:07:34:


Dave and Gary are spot on.  See if there is a harbor freight near you and it will cost $15 for a socket allen heads set.  At lowes it will be about $30.  I'm guessing it will come off fairly easily when you use one of those.

Best regards,

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 03/24/15 at 04:56:44:


this works near as well as an actual impact wrench

Art Webb wrote on 03/24/15 at 15:45:47:


OK....show me how this works on an "L" shaped allen wrench?