I'm 170 pounds. Use the calculator here to determine the correct rate springs --> http://racetech.com/ChooseVehicle.aspx

DO NOT use the calculator for the LS-650, it's not correct for cafe conversions. Rather, choose the radio button for "Street" then Yamaha/ SRX600/1895-89. Be sure to update the weight of the bike with the weight of your bike. 310 to 320 pounds should be correct.

You are only going to use the rate information for choosing the spring (i.e 0.80Kg). The Spring part number is FRSP S29380XX, XX is replaced by rate (in keeping with the prior example FRSP S2938080). The GVE part number is FEGV S3801. It should come with a Blue and Yellow Spring.

I'd be happy to update your forks. You're local (well, in state) so no need to ship. You can bring 'em to me. But it's a fairly simple job. It's one of those things that once you start you see how easy it is. The hardest part is deburring the inside holes that are drilled in the damping rod.

haylo wrote on 03/16/15 at 15:13:56:


If you are using RYCA's top triple clamp I think you will be fine. If you are using a modified lower t-clamp I think that there a possibility that the top of the fork sliders will make contact with the bottom of the lower triple clamp. Here's how I get there...

I looked at this quickly a few weeks ago, and if my memory is correct the mount for the clip-ons is 40mm (1-5/8"). My forks are raised 25mm above the triple clamp and I have 13mm reserve between the the top of the stroke and the bottom of the t-clamp. If I were to raise the forks up an additional 15mm (5/8") I'd be into my saftey zone by 2mm. However, my triple clamp it 13mm taller at the pinch bolts then the RYCA unit.

If you use the RYCA upper you'll have plenty of margin at the top of the stroke. If you use a modified lower you'll be 2mm into the margin. The likelihood of bottoming out is near nil...but it does exist under the most extreme conditions.

All of my measurements are based on using flush fork caps like my adjustable caps. I believe there is 7mm of additional margin on the stock caps.

1) What did this mod due to the final front ride height?  

2) Can you take a measurement of rake and trail with rider?  That would be a good piece of info to have.

3)  Ultimately; what was the total cost of the upgraded forks?

4) Clarification:  will the stock ryca clip ons work with the stock upper clamp ON TOP of the upper tree?

I already have a Tkat brace.  Looking also for slightly higher bars.
Possible swan necks or mounting the clip ons above the bar.

Gary: PM sent

swing69 wrote on 03/17/15 at 06:07:28:


I believe he answer is no.  The stock upper clamp on the Savage does not have a clamp, it has a lip that prevent the fork tube from extending up through the top yoke...the tube slides up into the yoke and hits the bottom side of the lip, and the cap screws on and clamps the lip between the tube and top nut.  You cannot get the tube to extend up above the stock upper clamp.  

During my assembly of the modified upper clamp (described by Gary), I found the RYCA clip-ons just a tad too "thick". Too much tube would have to be exposed for this mod. It's close though. Another brand clip-on perhaps? haylo

Gary..No, the spacers are out. That was the primary reason for making this mod..to regain that 2" of travel. With the RYCA clip-on installed above the top clamp the seal does contact the lower clamp (with no spring installed). I assume this will not be a problem once all the internals and fluid are in and with caps on. Certainly would like to try the higher bar position.

Gary..We're on the same page regarding measurements! So in your opinion that additional 1/8" exposure needed for the clip-on should not be a problem once all internals, fluid and cap are installed? Thanks a ton for helping with this.

I'm thinking that the oil height in the forks could be 140mm rather than my initial setting of 130mm (less oil). I'll know for sure after doing some heavy braking tests in the coming days, but as of now I'm using about 60% of available travel and I've yet to go beyond that mark. However with that said, I haven't hit any big bumps nor have I been able to make a real short stop. After the brake tests if I get into the 85% range I'll leave it be.

To reduce the oil height I just need to remove the caps (one at a time) and insert a hose into the forks and attach it to a syringe to extract a measured amount of oil. A 5 minute job.

Knowing that the inside diameter of our forks is 33mm and we want to reduce the height by 10mm, that measured amount of oil is 8.55ml (0.289oz) for every 10mm [Volume = Pi x R^2 x Length].

My spring rate and GVE settings are spot on and should serve as a good reference point for anyone doing the fork conversion.