Drilling tips: Go in steps (1/8" then 3/16" then final size) and make small cuts, backing off often to allow the bit to clear. Use cutting fluid (or Boelube) too. After the rod is drilled, you have to debur the outside and inside surfaces. The photo shows me using a speed deburring tool, but a larger drill bit for the outside and a rat-tail file for the inside can be used. Use brake cleaner and compressed air to get the small bits of metal out of the rod. You don't want metal floating in your forks, otherwise say goodbye to your fork seals and the screen in the Emulator.

Here is a photo of everything ready to go. Well almost. The photo shows two RT washers (see post above) and the OE spacer. I did use the OE spacer but only because I had 32mm OD washers from a prior project. The OE spacer will slide over the RT washer and spring (not if you use the FRSP S3243 spring). No problem, Race Tech provides a length of PVC that is used to make two spacers. I think my spacer length is around 120mm. Next time I have the forks apart I'll take a measurement. The measurement is only valid for those using the adjustable fork caps. If you are using the OE or fixed 38mm fork caps your spacer will be longer by about 10-15mm. If you use the FRSP 3234 springs your spacer will be longer by 35mm. What is important is that your baseline preload should be 15mm. You will make adjustments from there when you set the sag. That's why the adjustable caps are so nice, you don't need to open the forks and add washers or a longer spacer...just turn a wrench.

Levi wrote on 02/11/15 at 22:57:40:


I don't know yet. Everything is together and ready to go, but I've got icy and salt/sand covered roads in NJ. Not the best or safest conditions for testing. I'm hoping that I can get it out on the road in 4 to 6 weeks.

All of my static measurements check out so I'm sure I'm down to just a few tweaks - if any.

**also in nj.   **also thinks the snow should melt

Did you guys see what Ryca just came out with?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3sqEtQ8x9-A
Jeff

Good luck with the bike work and the weather.  
I've got my tank and bodywork at Connery's Custom Paints getting painted a Mercedes AMG matte grey. It'll be more than a few more weeks before I'm ready to ride.
But like most, I'm looking forward to getting back on the road, Feb was cold!!

Well today was the day when my bike migrated from the building stage to the riding stage. I updated my Builders Log on the short ride, but I wanted to provide initial feedback on the suspension.

With the bike on the ground and with my son’s help I was able to dial in the sag on the suspension. My forks are preloaded at 15mm, and 0mm at the caps. I’m using adjustable fork caps so adjustment is as simple as turning a wrench. The caps allow up to 20mm of additional preload.

The goal for properly set-up forks is 10-15mm of static sag (just the weight of the bike) and 35mm of total sag (me on the bike with gear on and the tank filled). My initial static sag was 19mm and my total sag was 38mm. I also measured the sag at the rear at 10mm static and 30mm total. This is with the preload adjustors set at 4 clicks. The method for measuring the rear allowed for some variability so I don't have high confidence in those figures, but they are in a proper range. I'll get better data in the coming days.

I dialed in an additional 5mm in the front and achieved 11mm static and 33mm total. I'm gonna leave everything where it is for now until I have a few hundred miles on the bike.

My ride was short (due to a fuel issue) and not very taxing on the suspension. However I can already tell that the suspension is dialed in nicely. A few slow speed brake tests show that I'm using a fair part of the stroke. Higher speed testing will reveal the exact amount, but under heavy braking it should be near 90% and under normal riding in the range of 50-60%.

If you've been waiting to pull the trigger...go ahead. It all works as expected and all signs indicate that this is a sweet riding bike. No RYCA owner has ever uttered those words before.

By the way, this was the first opportunity I had to sit on the bike while not on the building stand. It's a tiny little thing. And it’s not the torture rack I expected. I wouldn’t call it comfortable, but I’d say it’s an aggressive riding position for a sporting street bike. It’s stretched out well, and that takes a lot of weight off of the wrists. With some airflow on my chest I’d imagine that this might be an OK riding position.