I didn't participate in the poll, not experienced enough.  But the little riding I have done the gear change up and down does clunk a bit, I think I need to adjust the cable more.  I have had bikes with hydraulic clutch's in them for so long I have forgotten how to adjust a cable actuated clutch  

BTW I'm using Rotella T HD Diesel Engine oil 15W40.  I think that is one of the recommended oils, have to go back to the tech section and review.
Sorry, carry on
Gerry

 
No static check is going to take the place of adjusting the whole engagement zone to be in the center of the clutch hand lever travel.  

You can get them close with a static check, but a warm, engine running, bike rolling check -- that will give you the best real "engagement zone in the middle" tuning job.

With the bike rolling in gear under mild acceleration in gear (clutch out) you can judge the disengage free motion by gently taking up the slack in the lever until slipping starts.

With the bike rolling in gear with very mild throttle with the clutch in all the way you can judge the engage free motion when you slowly let the clutch out as the engine will slow down and change tone as soon as you hit the engagement zone.

Roughly speaking, the completely free motions should be equal on both sides of the engagement zone.   1/4 free, 1/3 engagement zone, 1/4 free.

A lot of these guys "touchy clutch issue" is that a cold clutch moves the engagement zone around some until it is warmed up again.

They need to learn not to sweat what a cold clutch does as it is only a very temporary state of affairs.  

And you shouldn't be romping hard on a cold engine anyway, it's not good for the hardware.