That's a power transister that's burnt to a cinder.
And right there my friends is why we loose spark at 10v, IC chips.
Designed to run on 12v, as soon as the voltage drops, they don't work.

me thinks you left the switch on, the coil shorted and the limited heat sink on the power IC overheated.

Please take a pic of the backside and enough picts so all the components can be identified.  This looks like a single sided pc board, it can be duplicated.

This is for a '86 thru '88


Quote:


Seems to confirm a problem with the coil.

I've lost the ignitor several times myself from leaving power on to the coil. Damage to mine looked like your pictures.
The Savage unit is a TCI system(Transistor Controlled Igniton). With the ignition switch on there is 12 volts on the coil at all times. The TCI interupts the ground side of the coil(Yellow-Black wire to pin 5) and the sparkplug fires. If you leave the ignition switch on with engine not running for an extended period the power transistor will overheat and fail.
Sounds like you have 2 failed ignitors. They can be repaired fairly easy. If you do  it yourself cost to repair both shouldn't be over $15.00. More if you use a shop. If you want to  repair them, let me know and I can give you a list of parts and source.

fsmidt:
To repair the ignitors you should be familiar with simple PC board repairs and good soldering practices or have a good friend who does nearby.
 I would begin by cleaning the foil side of the  pc board in the burnt area. If the copper foil is burnt away from the board, it is not a good candidate for repair. You can use a toothbrush,solvent,steelwool to clean the area. If you are able to polish the copper where it will take solder, component replacement is possible.
 From your picture of the component side of ignitor it looks like you lost the transistor and the black diode and blue resistor (470 ohm) directly below it. unseen in your picture are two small resistors underneath the transistors heat sink. The one closest to the board edge is 22 ohm, the other a 2K ohm. Both are 1/8 watt rated. If they look damaged I would replace them.
 Remove the damaged components using a low wattage gun and some solder wick. Remove the screw holding the transistor to the heat sink. With the transistor out of the way you can clean heat sink to insure good thermal contact  between it and the new transistor. Use thermal grease between them. The new transistor is a direct replacement with same mounting holes and pin layout. observe polarity when mounting diode.(Banded end faces away from block connector)
 After soldering and trimming leads, check the foil side closely for shorts and solder bridges. A good magnifier comes in handy here.
 I have had sucess in repairing two ignitors. Hopes this works for you.

 These components should be available from any electronic supply house:   A 1 amp rated general purpose diode(1n4003, 4 or 5)
            470 ohm 1 watt resistor  (Blue one in pic)
            22 ohm and 2K ohm  1/8 watt resistors if needed

 The transistor I used is a High Voltage Ignition Coil Driver mfg by ST Micro Electronics. This is a NPN Power darlington type in a TO-220 package. Part # is BU914ZT. I bought mine from Mouser Electronics(mouser.com) under part # 511-BU941ZT for about  3 bucks each. I think Digikey(digikey.com) also stocked these.
 Good luck with your repairs. Sucess qualifies you as a Savage Brain Surgeon.

is the glue looking material on the board the signs on a melted board?
verslagen1 wrote on 12/29/10 at 08:41:22:

is it bad if it drips onto the back of the board and could this cause sputtering/stalling during accelleration?

Be aware, check the connector before buying.
Different years have different connectors and may not be compatible to your bike even if you change the connector.
the 80's series are definitely not compatible to the 90's series due to timing issues.
And now I see an '09 might have a 6 prong connector.