i had to replace my seals a second time because i did not do it properly the 1st time, they lasted about 3 months.

you need new,

fork seals
dust seals (stops bits getting down and getting into the seals
new fork oil (decide what weight you want 10/15/20   or custom mix it yourself)
fork seal retaining clips (hard to get the old ones out without snapping or twisting them
a old curtain rod or broom stick that is the right diameter
new copper washers maybe( i used the copper washers that go on the banjo bolts on  the master cylinder
general Allen keys and tools

ero4444 wrote on 03/29/10 at 09:01:37:


Very good idea!

go whole hog

oil seals
retaining rings
dust seals
oil

RidgeRunner:  Never would have thought to look at Auto Shock boots.  Thanks!  (fit tight? any issues with rattle or such? suggestions?)

Verslagen: Yep. definitely going to replace all those.  Just hoping a local dealer has parts in stock.  (Closed Monday)

RadRacer: Any words of wisdom or gotcha's to report from your experience?

I'm at 56k miles and had the bike since 3,800.  The oil that's coming out looks OK.  I guess I'm due to replace those seals and oi anyway!

Thanks everyone!

a couple of cans of brake cleaner would be a good idea to clean the inside of the get all the chunks out  mine had alot but i live out in the country

Hopefully this will save someone else some grief..

I HAD a leak in the left fork.  Found a place (dealer) that said they could fix them in one day if I had the forks "in hand" and I should bring them in the next day.  I coulda sworn I asked if they had the parts in stock.. (why else would they say to bring them in?).

So, I pull the forks off that night, drag them over the next morning.  "Parts?? no.. we don't have the parts".  They called every where within 30 miles.  No joy.  "We can have parts for you next week.  Wanna leave the forks here?"  Not hardly..

Order the parts on line.  Was going to do it myself.  Then, found a place (non-dealer) that said he would do them for almost half the price of the dealer.   Very nice!!
Found some fork boots at a local truck place ($3 each).

Then read something on the internet..  HERE IS WHERE YOU LISTEN.
Take a piece of stiff plastic.. like camera film.  Wrap it around the fork tube and run it down between the dust seal and the tube.   Very careful to not scratch the seal.  Twirl it all the way around.  What you are trying to do is knock anything out of that dust seal that could be causing a leak to the outside air.  I had nothing better to do while I waited for the parts.  So.. did that.
I wanted to ride last weekend, so put new oil in the forks, put them on and.. no leak!
Rode all weekend.. no leak.. and rides just as good as ever.  Boots look pretty nice too.

verslagen1 wrote on 04/05/10 at 13:01:05:


I cut a piece from the plastic that is used to encase just about everything you buy these days.   I also read that sturdy business cards would work, drivers license, etc.
3.5 inches x 2.5 inches (not critical).  Round the corners off to avoid sharp points.  Wrap around tube (about half way or so I think it was).
Wiggle it down between the dust cap and tube.  Hold the plastic and lower fork still while rotating the tube.  Then hold the plastic and tube still while rotating the lower fork.
You can do this with the forks on the bike as well.. but all you can move is the plastic around the tube in a circle.  Not nearly as much fun.

One other thought.  If it still leaks (and you have not removed the forks from the bike), try loosening up the forks (fork cap, turn signal, lower T) and rotating tube just a bit.   Why?  In case the grit that caused the leak put a small grove in the fork tube.  Rotating the tube will move that grove away from the possible nick in the dust cap.
Can't hurt to try.