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Fork Seals (Read 272 times)
youzguyz
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Fork Seals
03/29/10 at 05:31:17
 
I have a leak on the left Fork.. (really need to stop treating this bike like a dirt bike!).

I read the Tech Section post on replacing seals, and it makes a lot less brew-ha-ha out of the procedure than the Clymers, and sounds like something I could do.  (Special part this, watch out of that, etc, etc)

Question:
Which parts must/should be replaced when performing this procedure?

Thanks!
youguyz
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2002 - Silver (Thumper)
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Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut between the seat and the handlebars. Make sure yours isn't too tight or too loose.
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jabman
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Re: Fork Seals
Reply #1 - 03/29/10 at 06:11:00
 
i had to replace my seals a second time because i did not do it properly the 1st time, they lasted about 3 months.

you need new,

fork seals
dust seals (stops bits getting down and getting into the seals
new fork oil (decide what weight you want 10/15/20   or custom mix it yourself)
fork seal retaining clips (hard to get the old ones out without snapping or twisting them
a old curtain rod or broom stick that is the right diameter
new copper washers maybe( i used the copper washers that go on the banjo bolts on  the master cylinder
general Allen keys and tools
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ero4444
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Re: Fork Seals
Reply #2 - 03/29/10 at 09:01:37
 
fork boots might be a good idea if they're coming off anyway.
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c2001, 3800miles, 3rd owner, adjusted idle, raised seat, Tkat brace, Raptor petcock, cleaned carb, replaced some jets, Dyna muffler, Fiamm horns, Shinkos, future Ed L. forward controls, fork boots.
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youzguyz
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Re: Fork Seals
Reply #3 - 03/29/10 at 09:44:54
 
ero4444 wrote on 03/29/10 at 09:01:37:
fork boots might be a good idea if they're coming off anyway.


Very good idea!
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2002 - Silver (Thumper)
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Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut between the seat and the handlebars. Make sure yours isn't too tight or too loose.
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RidgeRunner13
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Re: Fork Seals
Reply #4 - 03/29/10 at 10:34:33
 
ero4444 wrote on 03/29/10 at 09:01:37:
fork boots might be a good idea if they're coming off anyway.



Rancho shock boots fit pretty good, come in several colors & cost about $5 each. I got mine at O'Reilly. Cool
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verslagen1
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Re: Fork Seals
Reply #5 - 03/29/10 at 11:32:04
 
go whole hog

oil seals
retaining rings
dust seals
oil
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Re: Fork Seals
Reply #6 - 03/29/10 at 13:01:05
 
i just did mine yesterday along with boots and im guessing what came out is not supposed to be thin milky gray gunk lmao 22k+ miles im guessing they were the original seals since ive only owned for 10k
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'97 Savage stock carb #55 pilot, 1/2 spacer, #160 main,Modified Jardine, K&n air filter w/ pre-charger wrap, Nology Ign. Coil, PowerStar Spark Plug, ported head, stock cam, Verslavvy,Belt Drive
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youzguyz
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Re: Fork Seals
Reply #7 - 03/29/10 at 13:19:45
 
RidgeRunner:  Never would have thought to look at Auto Shock boots.  Thanks!  (fit tight? any issues with rattle or such? suggestions?)

Verslagen: Yep. definitely going to replace all those.  Just hoping a local dealer has parts in stock.  (Closed Monday)

RadRacer: Any words of wisdom or gotcha's to report from your experience?

I'm at 56k miles and had the bike since 3,800.  The oil that's coming out looks OK.  I guess I'm due to replace those seals and oi anyway!

Thanks everyone!
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2002 - Silver (Thumper)
2000 - Green (Mad Hamish)
Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut between the seat and the handlebars. Make sure yours isn't too tight or too loose.
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verslagen1
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Re: Fork Seals
Reply #8 - 03/29/10 at 14:05:59
 
To avoid shock... take a look at the online price and multiply by at least 20% and figure in waiting a week anyway for delivery.
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Re: Fork Seals
Reply #9 - 03/29/10 at 15:41:13
 
a couple of cans of brake cleaner would be a good idea to clean the inside of the get all the chunks out  mine had alot but i live out in the country
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'97 Savage stock carb #55 pilot, 1/2 spacer, #160 main,Modified Jardine, K&n air filter w/ pre-charger wrap, Nology Ign. Coil, PowerStar Spark Plug, ported head, stock cam, Verslavvy,Belt Drive
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Re: Fork Seals
Reply #10 - 03/30/10 at 08:42:22
 
looks like i will be replacing my fork seals now was hoping i could wait to do it next week... but i went on a ride with some friends over the weekend and the fork oil leaked out and dripped into my caliper all day and killed my front brake... so i will be fixing that too... i actually think replacing fork seals is the biggest pain in the ass job ever. but thats just me
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youzguyz
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Re: Fork Seals
Reply #11 - 04/05/10 at 11:45:35
 
Hopefully this will save someone else some grief..

I HAD a leak in the left fork.  Found a place (dealer) that said they could fix them in one day if I had the forks "in hand" and I should bring them in the next day.  I coulda sworn I asked if they had the parts in stock.. (why else would they say to bring them in?).

So, I pull the forks off that night, drag them over the next morning.  "Parts?? no.. we don't have the parts".  They called every where within 30 miles.  No joy.  "We can have parts for you next week.  Wanna leave the forks here?"  Not hardly..

Order the parts on line.  Was going to do it myself.  Then, found a place (non-dealer) that said he would do them for almost half the price of the dealer.   Very nice!!
Found some fork boots at a local truck place ($3 each).

Then read something on the internet..  HERE IS WHERE YOU LISTEN.
Take a piece of stiff plastic.. like camera film.  Wrap it around the fork tube and run it down between the dust seal and the tube.   Very careful to not scratch the seal.  Twirl it all the way around.  What you are trying to do is knock anything out of that dust seal that could be causing a leak to the outside air.  I had nothing better to do while I waited for the parts.  So.. did that.
I wanted to ride last weekend, so put new oil in the forks, put them on and.. no leak!
Rode all weekend.. no leak.. and rides just as good as ever.  Boots look pretty nice too.
Cheesy
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2002 - Silver (Thumper)
2000 - Green (Mad Hamish)
Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut between the seat and the handlebars. Make sure yours isn't too tight or too loose.
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verslagen1
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Re: Fork Seals
Reply #12 - 04/05/10 at 13:01:05
 
great tip!
This one should go in the tech section.

how big a piece of plastic, wrap all the way around? overlap? no overlap? small gap? what?
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youzguyz
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Re: Fork Seals
Reply #13 - 04/05/10 at 13:30:59
 
verslagen1 wrote on 04/05/10 at 13:01:05:
great tip!
This one should go in the tech section.

how big a piece of plastic, wrap all the way around? overlap? no overlap? small gap? what?


I cut a piece from the plastic that is used to encase just about everything you buy these days.   I also read that sturdy business cards would work, drivers license, etc.
3.5 inches x 2.5 inches (not critical).  Round the corners off to avoid sharp points.  Wrap around tube (about half way or so I think it was).
Wiggle it down between the dust cap and tube.  Hold the plastic and lower fork still while rotating the tube.  Then hold the plastic and tube still while rotating the lower fork.
You can do this with the forks on the bike as well.. but all you can move is the plastic around the tube in a circle.  Not nearly as much fun.

One other thought.  If it still leaks (and you have not removed the forks from the bike), try loosening up the forks (fork cap, turn signal, lower T) and rotating tube just a bit.   Why?  In case the grit that caused the leak put a small grove in the fork tube.  Rotating the tube will move that grove away from the possible nick in the dust cap.
Can't hurt to try.
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2002 - Silver (Thumper)
2000 - Green (Mad Hamish)
Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut between the seat and the handlebars. Make sure yours isn't too tight or too loose.
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youzguyz
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Re: Fork Seals
Reply #14 - 04/05/10 at 13:33:42
 
You can also buy the .. professional.. kind.   Roll Eyes

http://www.sealmate.net/
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2002 - Silver (Thumper)
2000 - Green (Mad Hamish)
Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut between the seat and the handlebars. Make sure yours isn't too tight or too loose.
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