verslagen1 wrote on 07/17/09 at 00:18:54:


Ver,

The reason I specified that the cable should be disconnected from the clutch release arm is this:

The only mention I find of these crankcase index marks in the FSM is in the section of Chapter 3 (ENGINE) that covers how to put the engine back together after you've disassembled it and inspected everything.  It mentions to check the alignment of the clutch release arm against the index marks right after you've reinstalled the clutch cover and before you've reconnected the clutch cable to the clutch release arm.

And, it does make a difference.  When I took the pic shown in the first post in this thread, the clutch cable was disconnected and the clutch release arm "pointed" toward the lower half of the index mark range.  After I connected the clutch cable and adjusted it to spec (with free play at the clutch lever), the clutch release arm "points" to the upper half of the index mark range.

So, like I said, it does make a difference whether or not the clutch cable is connected and properly adjusted.

I would like to have all the money wasted on clutches by list members in years past.  

Clutches got replaced when springs got weak (overheated due to abuse).

Clutches got replaced when pusher rods just needed to be changed.  

Clutches got replaced due to the energy star additives in standard car oils making the plates slip.

Clutches got replaced because folks didn't know how to adjust their clutch on both ends of the cable (and I am one of these BTW as I just plain didn't know there was an another adjustment under the rubber thingy up on the clutch lever assembly)

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To recover a clutch pack that has had energy star additive oil used in it.  Take the pack apart, soak the plates in solvent (yeah, gasoline) over night, then let dry thoroughly in the sun.

Take a finishing sander and fine grit paper to the steel plates on both sides to remove the glazing and roughen up the surface a little bit.

VERY LIGHTLY buff the surface of the totally dry gasoline cleaned fiber plates with the same fine grit of sandpaper.  Then soak the dry roughened fiber plates overnight in Rotella T diesel motor oil.  Reassemble clutch pack, using appropriate pusher rod to put the arm in between the marks.

Use Rotella T 15w40 diesel oil (or the Rotella 5w40 Synthetic if you prefer the higher temperature proof synthetic) from now on -- the dispersants and detergents in the oil will tend to scrub the slippery energy star stuff out of your motor over the span of a couple of oil changes.

Toymaker wrote on 07/27/09 at 05:57:49:


Toy,

I can't remember what it looks like in there.  So, you think a smaller rod will move the arm down?

And, you seem to agree with Verslagen that further down (but still within the index marks) is better.  Is that correct?

I'm just gathering data for the next time I'm in there.

TIA!

I know this is an old post but I feel there needs to be some clarification for folks.

When you release the cable tension the clutch arm might fall below the two index marks. This is fine, it just means the rocker inside the clutch cover is completely disengauged from the push rod.

To gauge the wear you need to use you finger and push the clutch arm up untill it meets resistance. The is reengaging the rocker against the push rod, you don't need to horse on it.

This is where you push rod is currently worn to.

Correct me if I am wrong, but above the index marks is what you want to avoid, and what you will encounter.