Well, I've been bolting things on here and there, and it looked like time to finally do the seat riser, and Sportster seat job. (The seat has been laying around here a few weeks awaiting it's turn).

(In the following paragraphs I describe a highly technicially prototyping technique called "bubble gumming.")   It means: To temporarily position things where your "think" they might be best suited, and build around them until you are ready to commit to their position on the final assembly.

So... I removed the old stock seat, and sit the Sportster seat on the bike with some rags etc.. supporting the front part of the seat in approx. the position it would be with the inch longer bolts and rubber bushings I bought to jack up the front bracket. Looks pretty good I'm thinking: (left click photo and select 'view immage' to see bigger picture)



And though the new seat and position feels like it would be a considerable improvement over the torture that is the stock seat, it is still far from an ideal riding position for me. I'm about 5' 11" and 250 pounds of whoop azz    That's why the poor little Savage is named Ox, kind of like Mongo's ride in Blazing  Saddles

Anyone interested might notice the addition of fat pull-back risers, O-ring pegs, and a stock sissy bar- sans pad, since the Ox was last posted for viewing here. But please ignore the recently worsening oil leak at the cap-plug, and little puddle on the floor

I've stopped the installation process to think things over a bit before carrying on. I stepped back from the situation, and reconsidered earlier thoughts of going with a solo seat; since the wife has no desire to ride in any capacity any longer. Then I jacked the original seat up to a position where it felt like I needed to be, and this is where it was:



That is about 3" up at the front, and 2" at the back. Part of the extreme height of the front is due to the "cupped" shape of the stock seat. If I could find a well padded solo seat (no ball busters) that sat more level, the position woudln't have to be so extreme I think. Also, I have an old musician buddy that I haven't talked to in years, who was in the auto upholstery buisness, and I was thinking maybe he could do something with the stock pan to make it into an acceptable seat.

One way, I end up with a chopper/bobber seat mounted up on springs, which makes me have to hide lots of wires etc... The other way, I'll end up on top of a very tall pad of stiff upholstery foam rubber...

Decisions, decisions... I may just have a Spotster seat for sale in the near future, maybe a stock one too...

Any helpful suggestions would be greatly appreciated... But no thanks, I don't want the controlls mounted farther forward, I'm not real happy about having forward controls in the first place.

Hmmm.....???

Just after I replied to this, I read
Pillion removal and fender cleanup which discusses solo seats.

Island_Biker wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:01:


Thanks for the link. Even though I'd used the search last night for ideas, that one didn't come up somehow.

Island_Biker wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:01:


Yeah, I'm thinking I'll eventually end up with a sprung solo seat. As you said, maybe based on the original seat pan. But the sissy bar has to stay, as I have plans for attaching something top-secret  to it. (Que "Secret Agent Man" music!) Double Naught spy stuff don't cha know.

But in the meanwhile, I may go ahead with the Sporty seat. It's here, and obviously more comfortable than being wracked on that torture device Suzuki calls a seat. The solo will requre more thought and parts searching/buying. Maybe even a Mongo seat recover for the stock pan, then I could have my YES/NO stitched on the back of "Ox" just like on Blazing Saddles  

The Tee bracket is house construction standard from Home Depot.  About 12" x 12".  You'll need the 12" high, but you'll narrow up the T when you're through.

In front it rests on top of the standard tank bracket.  Since this is a long, 1 piece seat I'm not worried about it lifting up.  Besides there's no way my butt will grip the seat.

In back I used the bracket from the harley seat.  Cut off 1 hole, mounted it on the seat pointed forwards, then cut the part hanging down so it does dig in the fender.  And wrap with tape so it doesn't rattle on the fender loop or D-ring.  I would have bent it only to tighten up the fit.

My seat had a recess almost perfect for the rectifier.  During my bubble gumming, I put cut outs in the seat to match the frame and rectifier.  Although I think I wasted a lot of time for naught as the seat sits higher.  Make a trial fit, and use a router or dremel with a router bit to remove the interference in the seat.  I ended up with 4 holes about the size of a 50 cent piece each.

Since I only rest on top in the front, removal is pull the pins, lift and push backward on the seat.  Installation is hook the back, align the side tabs while lowering the front into place, reinsert the pins.  Easy on/off.

The pins shown were stolen from my hobbie cat.  I've since replaced them with surplus pins from C&H surplus in Pasadena.  They had a listing on ebay for a selection of Pins.  Knowing where it was, I ran down there and picked out what I wanted for a buck a piece.  They're going to close in a couple of months.  They have 2 different ones that will work along with sizes that could go from one side to the other.  I going to use the black L handles ones, 1/4" dia x 1" pins but the grip is only 1/2".  That's enough to lock on the tabs of the seat and still engage with the holes I drilled in the frame.  I'll pick you up some if you want.  Can't beat a buck plus shipping.  Send me your email and I'll let you know how much and pay with paypall.

The seat doesn't sit real tight, but looks good with no visual gaps.  As the pictures shows, everything is still hidden.  I'll be glad to help anyway I can.  If you need anymore info, I'll revise the website for all to see.  I need to add the seat cutout pict's anyway.  I could sketch out the bracket and add it too.

I haven't done a lot of riding lately, but it does feel good.

verslagen1 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:01:



The extra instructions along with the pictures of your installation should get me through mine just fine. I've located some speed pins at a nearby hardware store, and the Home Depot here should have the same framing bracket as yours.

The only thing different I see that I might do, is that I already bought parts for a seat rise mod, and I may go ahead and raise the front bracket a half inch and then stick the framing bracket under there to have the seat hooked down on all four sides.

I much appreciate your taking time to further explain what you'd done. I'll probably document my install too for other's to see.

Thanks,

John

TVR_FSO wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:01:



His link still comes up with pictures for me:

http://hometown.aol.com/managwa/index.html

John, when I went to work on copiers my background was oilfield, where we "tore down & rebuilt" big pumps. After a few weeks of work orders for customers he told me in the copier bidniss it was "Disassemble, troublehoot, repair, reassemble"

Now, the "Bubblegum" works fine for me, but some folks might think more of your project if ya went with, ohh say,, "Mockup" or is that too close to what the result may be?
I don't know what a 12" Framing Bracket is, but if you tell me I have Lowes, Home depot, Tractor Supply, Sears. Harbor Freight, all in town. I'll see if I can find what ya need,