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TailLight Bulb Number (Read 20 times)
theikeman
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Re: TailLight Bulb Number
Reply #15 - 01/09/06 at 20:29:26
 
Walmart carries a LED  replacement for the 1157 for under 7 bucks with 12 leds. Icy Hot brand, part number 504051B. Ebay sellers get 10 to 15 plus s/h charges.
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Re: TailLight Bulb Number
Reply #16 - 01/09/06 at 20:32:44
 
yup tailight is a 1157.  I got a led replacement for my rear tail when I got clear replacement lens for my directionals and tailight, the red bulb it came with reflected and looked made the entire inside red(pointless).  Warning tho, the led I bought, some cheap 7.99 led at Autozone, only lights up a little red dot when running, unless u press the brake then it comes on fully.
Torque and I even had to splice the wires and reverse them because the bulb was too bright for running light and almost nothing when u braked (reversed of stock).  Weird.  Only thing I could think it was because it was for a car?

I also got led directionals for the front 1157 and silver amber bulbs for the rear directionals.  The less draw of amps from the leds in the front made my bike blink very fast, kinda too fast.  Luckily, when my flasher literally burned from a short in the rear fender from mounting the rear directionals with saddlebag brackets and no sissybar, we had to replace the blinker relay with a 2.99 autozone blinker that had two terminals.  I almost debated buying a different one and making emergency flashers but the cheap thermal blinker is cheap to replace and eliminated the super fast blink speed.  But when u turn on the blinker it takes literally 1 second for it to warm up and then blink the 1st time u turn it on after the bike has been sitting, but then its fine for the rest of the ride.

Well I hope I havent bored ya to death with my blinker crisis with Torque.
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Re: TailLight Bulb Number
Reply #17 - 01/10/06 at 03:09:34
 
Hey everyone, My eyes must have been criss crossed when I first replied last nite, because how could I disagree with what was already right.

So. apologies  to sluggo, for that.

I guess I was so excited that I had the right bulb to fix my own problem that I inserted foot-in-mouth instead of bulb in socket.
Embarrassed  Embarrassed  Embarrassed

Gerry

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Re: TailLight Bulb Number
Reply #18 - 01/10/06 at 05:42:34
 
I haven't had any problems with mine so I haven't ever opened them up.  But since I'm contemplating adding that kit Paladin recently acquired, I was also considering replacing all of the bulbs (excluding the headlight) with LED equivalents to reduce the electrical load.  While I know the tail-light is an 1157 (dual filament) I was sure about the directionals.  It would seem they should only require the single filament.  Is that correct?  I'm sure the directionals will require the right-angle versions of the LED replacements.
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Re: TailLight Bulb Number
Reply #19 - 01/10/06 at 06:09:37
 
Savage_Rob wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:01:
... I'm contemplating adding that kit Paladin recently acquired, I was also considering replacing all of the bulbs (excluding the headlight) with LED equivalents to reduce the electrical load.  While I know the tail-light is an 1157 (dual filament) I was sure about the directionals.  It would seem they should only require the single filament.  Is that correct?  I'm sure the directionals will require the right-angle versions of the LED replacements.

The front turn signals are dual element run/turn.  The rears are single element.  The socket is sideways for a right-angle LED replacement would be required.  If using the LED ring for run/brake you would have to ensure that the outside diameter of the LED bulb replacement was smaller than the inside diameter of the LED ring.
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Re: TailLight Bulb Number
Reply #20 - 01/10/06 at 07:32:54
 
Sluggo,

How/why are you going through so many?

With my floppy "fender" I've smashed two (and gotten pulled over for no tail light two times to match) in 4 months.
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Re: TailLight Bulb Number
Reply #21 - 01/10/06 at 09:16:31
 
WOW! What a good bunch of info re tail lights etc!  My original inquiry was prompted by an ad in a motorcycle supply catalog about an LED tail light bulb with a wireless transmitter.  When you put on the stop light, the transmitter sents a signal to a remote light strip (also led) and provides additional lights when braking.  This remote light strip can be mounted anywhere on the rear of the bike, including sissy bar, rear bracket or even on your helmet.  It is a flexible strip and has a sticky-back for mounting.

Sounds a little science fiction-ish, but if it worked as advertised, would be a nice addition.

Comments please.

Jack H.
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Re: TailLight Bulb Number
Reply #22 - 01/10/06 at 12:34:03
 
vroom1776 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:01:
Sluggo,

How/why are you going through so many?

With my floppy "fender" I've smashed two (and gotten pulled over for no tail light two times to match) in 4 months.


the tail light is mounted to the swing arm, there is nothing to absorb the shock and vibration.
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Re: TailLight Bulb Number
Reply #23 - 01/10/06 at 13:04:06
 
I see that there is a lot of talk about replacing the blinkers (both 1156's and 1157's) with LED equivilents.

I have read through most of this and have yet to see mention of load equalizers.

Using LED's as turn signals and brakes can work fine for you if you get a good quality substitute (some of the cheaper ones are just too dim to be useful  Undecided), but keep in mind that if you replace a turn signal bulb with an LED you will experience a quick flashing signal (Jim_R this is what you experienced).

Most bikes are set to see a certain resistance when the bulb is working correctly. When the bulb burns out the resistance changes signaling the system of the failure. What your suppose to get is a quick flashing blinker (the little blinker light on your speedo) to tell you of the failure. Also the blinker itself will blink much quicker. LED's have a much lower resistance which will let the system think there is a failure.

To rectify this you need to put load equalizers into the circuit that will increase the resistance thus fooling the system into thinking everything is ok.

You only need the load equalizers in the turn signal circuits, the brake/tail lights do not act this way.

As far as LED's go they are a lot more durable then the standard bulbs. I have been running them in my Intruder for years now without failure.

Just keep in mind that you get what you pay for. If you buy some of these cheap $2-3 dollar replacements they will just sit on a shelf and you will have a negative outlook on LED's. If you get a good quality set they will be near blinding and very easy to see.
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Re: TailLight Bulb Number
Reply #24 - 01/10/06 at 22:06:10
 
I've read into it and the loading resistor setup is kind of counterproductive.  I mean, it increases consumption to raise the current/heat to a level the old-type flasher will recognize.  In short, you gain nothing in the way of lesser electrical load.



The load packs must be used in-line with each bulb replaced and they have decently sized heat-sinks that must be mounted properly too... not my bag.

The alternative is to replace the flasher unit with an LED flasher unit.



It will then operate normally.

The only other thing that concerns me about LEDs is the fact that I have a BackOFF brakelight modulator installed.  Several months after I installed it, they introduced a new model made to function with LEDs or bulbs.  That would tend to make me think my older version won't.  That would prohibit my replacement of the taillight/brakelight at the moment.  I think I'll learn more before taking any action on the LED front at this point.

However, I think I still want to get that running light kit either way.
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Re: TailLight Bulb Number
Reply #25 - 01/11/06 at 06:32:54
 
The resistor thing -- you may not see the energy saving, but you will get the reliablity of the solid state LED over a fragile fillament.  With the bulb the modulator will continue to work with the additional LEDS, the additional load being so small as to not matter.
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Re: TailLight Bulb Number
Reply #26 - 01/11/06 at 07:39:18
 
Paladin. wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:01:
The resistor thing -- you may not see the energy saving, but you will get the reliablity of the solid state LED over a fragile fillament.  With the bulb the modulator will continue to work with the additional LEDS, the additional load being so small as to not matter.


I guess I was kinda rambling but my concern isn't with the addition of the kit and the functionality of the modulator.  I was concerned that changing my taillight/brakelight bulb to an LED cluster would hose it up.

So far as the resistor packs and the load, I was advocating the new flasher rather than the load resistors.  That way you retain functionality and decrease the load on the electrical system.  I'm now thinking about changing the flasher unit, along with the front and rear running lights/signal bulbs to LED clusters and keeping the brakelight bulb until I can verify the functionality of the modulator.  I may just spring for the extra LED replacement and try it for grits and shins.  If it works, great!  If not, get a load resistor for that one lamp.  The first thing will definitely be the running light kit you recently added.  I really like the idea of having that additional visibility.
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Re: TailLight Bulb Number
Reply #27 - 01/11/06 at 14:50:31
 
ahhh.....  the turn signal thing might not work without the turn signal bulbs.  The run/brake LEDs get their ground on the hot side of the turn signal lead -- through the turn signal bulb.  (When it goes hot to light the bulb the LEDs go dark.)
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Re: TailLight Bulb Number
Reply #28 - 01/11/06 at 17:32:05
 
Paladin. wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:01:
ahhh.....  the turn signal thing might not work without the turn signal bulbs.  The run/brake LEDs get their ground on the hot side of the turn signal lead -- through the turn signal bulb.  (When it goes hot to light the bulb the LEDs go dark.)

LOL! I see.  I just looked at the wiring diagram on their site.  You are correct sir!  The filament is used for the completion of the circuit.  Okay, the bulbs stay.
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