New tools to buy! Cool!

Angled feeler gauges?  D@mn, you guys got it too easy.  I keep forgetting and so when I need to do this, I end up doing it the hard way with straight ones.

The range is .003"-.005" and I always snug the rocker with a .005" feeler, and remove.  Then when I completely tighten the 10 MM nut it just about always closes up to .004"....and middle works for me.

Savage_Greg wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:06:

Nice picture
But do you remove the engine to set the valve clearence?

Greetz
Kropatchek

Savage_Rob wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:06:


Okay, evaluation time...
While the tappet toolset might be fun on some other engines (or this one if it's out of the frame), I couldn't seem to get it into where it was needed.  An open end wrench and an offset screwdriver were what I used.  The feeler gauges worked fine, though I'm glad I had two of each size because I had to bend the handles slightly to get them into place.  The timing cover wrench is a good investment.

TDC was at about 3 o'clock on mine and I'd guess that's probably standard.  I'm pretty sure this was the first time the valves were adjusted and they were TIGHT - I mean no gap at all.  It took between 3/4 and 1 full turn out to open a gap.  I set them snug on .005 and once tightened, they were at .003.  Just my experiences this time.  I hope this helps someone else.  If any of this sounds horribly wrong to anyone, let me know.

No, I was retorquing the head cover bolts at TDC and just figured it was time to adjust 'em while I was in there.  I must admit the instructions in the Clymer are a little odd - at least to me.  I mean, I see the timing mark and can align it easily enough for TDC - now whether that is TDCC I don't know.  The Clymer says to set it at the mark and then check that all rockers have free play.  Then it goes on to say that if they don't, you should rotate the engine another 180 degrees and check again for free play and to be sure it's on the timing mark again too.  NOW, if it was on the timing mark and I rotate it 180 degrees, it darn sure won't be on the timing mark again.  I'll play with it some more tomorrow and won't crank it until I'm sure I've done it properly but if someone could clarify how to achieve TDCC, it'd be helpful.  I guess I could always pull the plug and insert a dowel to see when the piston rises.  Nah, the piston has to rise on the exhaust stroke too.  Hmmm...  I'll get it one way or another.

SavageDude wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:06:

That's no fun and I don't learn anything.  I guess I'll just watch the valves as I turn the engine and see what stroke it's on.

Savage_Rob wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:06:


Confusing?  Maybe.  There are 2 TDC positions.  One on the exhaust stroke (with the exhaust valves open) and one on the compression stroke with all valves closed.  That is where you want to be.

If you find it easier, you can remove the plug to rotate the engine.  To feel when the valves are free is a matter of touch, though.  Very small movement.  Just watch the valves as you go through a couple revolutions and you'll see where the position is....

Savage_Rob wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:06:


That's right.

Did you turn the engine anti clockwise when looking from the left side or did you follow Clymer's instructions ?

Greetz
Kropatchek

And yes I worked on airplanes and did my share of replacing components and other stuff by feel.