Also, I should have been better attention. But does the brake pedal return spring go behind the black frame part like I have it in the photo or in front?

https://ibb.co/pWW4tgz

Thanks verslagen for confirming. I bought the cam chain modification from you years ago and kept putting it off, until I no longer had a choice with the clutch going out...haha! Def was easier than I expected.

Now I just have to wait for the clutch parts to arrive.

I do have one question regarding the exhaust. I was not able to remove the entire exhaust as one piece. I just removed the header pipe. The muffler was replaced with a Jardine and for the life of me I couldn't figure out how to get a socket on the 2 bolts as the rubber piece was in the way. What did I do wrong?

https://ibb.co/KNqRMHp
https://ibb.co/XskkxgY
https://ibb.co/FHmyhvp

Also, should I use antiseeze on the header pipe bolts when I reinstall? I already have the new exhaust gasket...

Its some sort of rubber washer gasket/washer. I'm not sure if its a stock part or because I have an aftermarket exhaust. There is no way I could get a socket on the bolt head.

That’s almost exactly the way my Verslavy CCT looked when I installed it on the 2nd hole.  My thinking was - if the plunger let me get it in the 2nd hole, it must be okay.  If you had used the 1st hole, you’d probably have to move it to the 2nd hole within 1000 miles the way it appears.  2nd hole gets my vote for the right hole in your condition.  

I’d buy a new c-clip for such an important little fastener.  It would be hard to see if you “wollered-out” or bent the old c-clip with the screwdriver (that would be something that would happen to me.).  I also broke down and bought the special pliers (good little tool investment).  

Also, a dab of some red threadlocker for the bolt holding the CCT.

I like Verslagen’s tip on how to make a “catch funnel” out of a plastic bag to lube the clutch cable.  I’ve been known to just use a rag and make a mess as I squeeze some oil in there and let gravity do the work.

For the muffler mount bolts, I agree with Dave and Graybeard.  And squirt some PB Blaster in there as best you can and try a box end wrench. Give the PB Blaster 15-20 minutes to work and it may need multiple doses to get the funk out.

I use anti-seize on the header bolts and torque to 19nm.  Max torque for the header bolts is 28nm “dry bolts” (Clymer Manual).  Rule of thumb is use 30% lower torque when anti-seize is used, so I go 19nm.  And that feels about right.  Any more would feel scary.  I may have hit 19.5nm.

Thanks for all the tips ThumperPaul!

Yeah new c-clip is on the way…I didn’t want to take any chances.

Regarding the cam chain tensioner bolt, you are the first I’ve read to put thread locker on the bolt. Any reason why I should use red vs blue thread locker if I use it? Also, what is the torque spec for that bolt?…I believe the manual lists 2 different numbers. I just snugged it by hand.

I splurged and bought a motion pro cable luber, so we’ll see how that works…but thanks for the bag trick tip!


As far as the muffled bolts…it’s not a matter of rust. I live in the southwest so rust really isn’t an issue. I bought the bike used with the muffler already installed and I’m starting to think they missed a washer or something on the installation. I literally can’t get a socket to grab the bolt because the rubber washer is blocking it. Does anyone have a photo of the stock muffler bolts to get an idea of what it should look like? I guess it’s not a huge deal in the I was able to just get the header pipe out by itself. Speaking of which…Does any regular anti-seize work for the header bolts or should I look for something special?

I think Micheal was referring to the header “bolts”.  Our bikes have pretty chrome cap “bolts”.  Many motorcycles have threaded “studs” that install into the exhaust manifold/head and then use nuts to mount the exhaust header flange.  Our bikes really don’t have an exhaust “manifold” per se either.  I think this is just a terminology miscommunication.

Or maybe Michael is suggesting swapping out the header bolts and replacing them with studs and nuts.

And I think Dave is right.  Someone left out the flat metal washers on the muffler bolts and just cranked ‘em down until the rubber grommets got crushed to sh!t.  Try to get an open end wrench on ‘em.  Or whip out the vise grips and give that a try.  If all else fails, chop ‘em off with a cutoff tool and install fresh hardware.

Thanks for the link on exhaust studs!

Clymer Manual Says.

Cam Chain Tensioner
Set Bolt  20-25nm (14.5-18.0 ft.-lb.)
Plate Bolt 8-12nm (6-8.5 ft.-lb.)