Could it be that the stack up height of 18 WWS and 19 WW vs 20 friction disc are causing a problem?
It seems to me that these are meant to provide a slipper clutch feel but if the friction disc never fully engages than 1/6 of the clutches engagement is never fully there.

When you discovered the first worn out pressure disk, was the hub also worn out?  You said you replaced the pressure disk, did you also replace the hub.  I have this old picture of your worn-out pressure disk.  That is really bad.  Is the current pressure disk also worn this bad?  

The hub was not worn significantly to my eye (without taking any measurements) the last time NOR this time. It feels flush and has no indication of wear anything like the pressure disk.

Regarding the walkthrough I appreciate this and would be able to do so, I would commit myself to following direction and can upload any photos that do not fit here either on an external site or via Google drive.

Versy, I am not confused by your approach with the pushrod.  Are you saying that you always hand work the pushrod to achieve 12.5mm protrusion from the push piece?

IMO, that will work fine as long as all the components subject to wear are in pristine condition.  But once stuff starts to wear the pushrod has to be shortened to prevent the release mechanism from holding the pressure disk off the plates.

I personally never find any wear on the pushrod.  The thing is very hard, and so is the cam.  The release bearing should prevent the pushrod from rotating with the release plate, so the relative motion between the pushrod and the cam would be minimal.  I did find a little galling on the socket in the cam once, but it was superficial.

Regarding the wave washer, the wave washer assembly (18 & 19) in the relaxed state is about .149", while the fiber disk in way of the wave washer is .139", so you have to compress the wave washer before the special fiber disk starts to lock up.

It takes about 125 pounds of force to compress the wave washer to a point where the special outer plate (20) starts to grab.  That's a little over one-half the available spring pressure (4 springs at 56 lbs = 224 lbs).

DragBikeMike wrote on 05/04/24 at 16:50:59:

No, just a number I shoot for. anything over 12 should do, but must be less than 13

"It's totally unrideable currently. Clutch skips so bad I'm having neighborhood kids riding wheelies around me on BMX bikes. Can't get above 20mph."

Please, never ride a motorcycle if the clutch is slipping, especially if it is slipping that bad.  Even a short ride under those conditions will completely wreck the clutch.  If I give my bike throttle and there is a hint of clutch slippage, I get off the throttle and limp home.  If I am in a situation where I can't stop the slipping by staying off the throttle, I park it and get my truck or have the bike towed.

This is very important.  I want to be sure I understand the situation.  You have the bike assembled with a new set of clutch plates & springs, but the old worn-out pressure disk is in there.  Is that correct, new plates, old worn-out pressure disk?


My word you are in a tough spot.  Doing this work on the sidewalk is a tall order.  I'm glad you filled me in on your situation.  Since you have a weather delay, maybe we can use the time for some preps.

Can you take a picture of your bike as it sits right now, then try and crop the picture to reduce the file size and post the picture?  That will get you set up for the back & forth with the pictures.  If the cropping doesn't work, we can try different approaches.  I've gotta be able to see your parts.  Maybe some of the other members have good methods to reduce the file size so that you can easily post photos.

What sort of tools and equipment do you have?  Do you have a dial caliper or a vernier caliper, something that can measure accurately (say to within +/- .004")?

Can you gather up a few odds & ends in preparation for surgery.

-4 washers, 1/4" ID x 7/8" OD
-Short section of soft rolled copper tubing (1/4" or 3/8" or 1/2")
-A bathroom scale or suitable method to measure spring force

Let's use the rain delay to get ready for the job.

Philly, if you find it too cumbersome to come up with a spring testing rig, consider ordering a new set of OEM springs (not aftermarket, not Caltric, not EBC, not Barnett, you want Genuine Suzuki).  The OEM springs only cost $4.26 a piece.  Given all the trouble you have had with your clutch, that's a cheap investment.

You may ask why not use Barnett?  Barnett offers good quality springs and they are stiffer and provide more travel......but you must always consider the release cam.  The stock release cams are prone to failure so if you are running a stock release cam you want to run OEM springs installed at the as-designed height.

If you can't test your springs to make sure they apply adequate force, then you should replace them with springs of known quality.  Solution, Genuine Suzuki clutch springs, part # 09440-20016.

This old post provides some background info.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1526991117

Alright, just posting this from my phone -- bike as it currently sits.

Any pictures for the walkthrough I can just take a resize on windows no problem.