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Keihin PWK38 Air Striker Carburetor Installation (Read 207 times)
ThumperPaul
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Re: Keihin PWK38 Air Striker Carburetor Installati
Reply #15 - 04/28/24 at 15:09:15
 
Here's a link to DragBikeMike's "Evolution of a Hot Rod Part 4".  My inspiration for this carb mod.  This is where Mike goes into detail on setting up the PWK38 he installed on an almost stock bike.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1625732492/15

Mike achieved the best performance with a #35 Pilot Jet, #142 Main Jet, with the e-clip in the 4th groove from top on the needle (1 groove richer  than the 'neutral #3' groove in the middle).

To get the best performance out of his bike with the PWK38, Mike installed a K&N cylindrical filter in a highly modified airbox.  The K&N RD-0710 is 3.5” diameter by 5” long which has over twice the area of the flat-panel filter.  Mike's other nonstock item is his muffler (LCGP 2.5” resonator with baffle).

I'm installed the PWK38 Air Striker with a #35 Pilot, #138 Main with e-clip in the 4th groove from top (richer).  I'm starting here and trying this setup with a stock air box (side cover removed), flat panel Hiflofiltro air filter, and stock header/muffler.

I think I’ll be fine with the #35 Pilot (like DBM’s).  I’m mostly wondering about my selection of a #138 main.  This is 2 sizes down from DBM’s #142 with his better flowing air intake and muffler.

The impact of the “air striker” feature is a bit of a flyer and unknown to me in terms of jetting adjustments.  Gotta start somewhere…

Thoughts?  Hoping DBM and others that have installed the standard PWK38 or PWK38 Air Striker can chime in with thoughts/suggests.

I'm considering a bigger better flowing K&N or Uni foam pod air filter either now or down the road.  I'm also planning on a dyna muffler in the future.  My main goal right now is to get the bike running again and then I can tinker as needed and do more mods later.





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« Last Edit: 04/29/24 at 09:18:47 by ThumperPaul »  
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Re: Keihin PWK38 Air Striker Carburetor Installati
Reply #16 - 04/28/24 at 17:55:25
 
And not to be forgotten, a good intake manifold is needed.  The stock manifold with a built-in O-ring ridge doesn't fit snuggly enough on the PWK.

This Mikuni intake manifold is what allowed me to finally get the PWK40 I installed on a different S40 dialed in correctly albeit still a little rich.  The Mikuni manifold eliminated air/vacuum leaks that were causing me to chase my tail setting incorrectly compensating up with huge jets and getting terrible gas mileage.  With a tight fit on the manifold, I was able to install more appropriate smaller jets and get a good setup and performance.

Mikuni HSR42 Carburetor Rubber Flange Adapter 70mm-75mm 45mm Spigot HS42/018-42K
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« Last Edit: 04/29/24 at 09:15:53 by ThumperPaul »  

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Re: Keihin PWK38 Air Striker Carburetor Installati
Reply #17 - 04/29/24 at 11:40:09
 
Looks like you are comin at this the right way.  Jetting should be on the rich side.  That's good.  Start rich, it's always safer.  You should have additional main jets on hand (135, 132, & 130).  I have found the #35 pilot a bit rich.  I believe the #35 is the smallest pilot jet available from Jets-R-Us or OEM.  

There are some cheap jet kits on Amazon that include a #32, but the main jets provided in those cheap kits are a bit funky.  The sketchy kits are so cheap that I bought one just to try the #32 pilot.  The #32 pilot measured out correctly (lucky me) and it cleaned up the idle a bit.  I use the funky main jets for other projects. 

Sorry to hear about your stock carburetor.
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Re: Keihin PWK38 Air Striker Carburetor Installati
Reply #18 - 04/29/24 at 13:35:25
 
Thanks Mike.  Interesting that you think the 138 will be too rich.  I thought 2 sizes down compared to your bike would be about right.  We’ll see.

Haha!  I am the proud owner of some of those cheap Amazon jets.  I know I have 32 pilot and 135 main.  I need to see if I have the other smaller main jets.

Do you know what effect the Air Striker will have on jetting?  Would it allow for use of a smaller main jet or leaner needle setup?  Or is it the opposite?
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Re: Keihin PWK38 Air Striker Carburetor Installati
Reply #19 - 05/03/24 at 06:45:35
 
The exposed length of throttle cable is too much.  This pic is with the adjuster at the carb fully extended (about 1/2").  The exposed length is about .75 - 1.0" too long to get the throttle end adjuster somewhere closer to the middle of the range.

I'm using the stock throttle tube and even if I hacksawed it to use the second hole (designed for a return cable) on the throttle tube, it would stll be too much cable to set up the freeplay correctly.

This cable is from Murray's Carbs.  He offers this cable with the Mikuni VM36 carbs he sets up and sells for the Savage.  He swears its the right length, but admits mistakes happen.  He ended up sending me a shorter exposed length cable after some lengthy back and forth, and I used that cable on a different bike (Woody) and it was good.  

So, I'm trying to use this extra backup cable on my new project.  I'm going to cut the cable about .75" and solder on a new ferrule. If I don't like or trust my soldering work, I'll be getting a new cable.

It wouldn't be right if everything went perfectly smoothly for me.

EDIT: I decided not to solder.  I decided to use a screw type “emergency” ferrule on the throttle tube end of the cable.  It holds very well when I try to make it fail.  I ended up shortening the exposed cable 1” and I still had about 3/8th inch that needed adjusting out to get the free play right.  Now that I have the length right, I may go back and reinforce the screw-type ferrule with a little solder.
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« Last Edit: 05/04/24 at 06:32:51 by ThumperPaul »  

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Re: Keihin PWK38 Air Striker Carburetor Installati
Reply #20 - 05/03/24 at 20:54:23
 
I'm lookin forward to lightoff.  I really like the PWK.  It's been a great carb for me and it's very easy to dial in.  It will be interesting to hear how it runs with that stock muffler, where your jetting ends up, how the air filter works, etc.
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Re: Keihin PWK38 Air Striker Carburetor Installati
Reply #21 - 05/04/24 at 06:18:57
 
Thanks Mike!  Me too.  I’m installing a new stator this morning and with some luck I might be able to get her fired up later today.

Your need to install a K&N air filter to get the best performance has me thinking.  As an aside, I scored a pair of nice HD Dyna mufflers on E.Bay.  Once I have this bike running well again and any other issues addressed, my next phase will probably be the dyna muffler and air filter.  

Trying hard not to get the cart too far out in front of the horse.  If I hadn’t destroyed the stock carb, I wouldn’t be installing the PWK right now.
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Re: Keihin PWK38 Air Striker Carburetor Installati
Reply #22 - 05/06/24 at 05:05:08
 
Hey Mike.  I was able to get my first start-up yesterday after needing to bypass the clutch position safety sensor.

I haven’t test ridden it yet, but after getting the bike reasonably warmed up in the garage, I was able to somewhat assess the air/fuel mixture at idle/pilot jet.

Bike fired right up at 2 turns out on the 35 pilot jet.  After warming up, I found the best mix at 2.5 turn out (adjusting leaner). I can see how you decided to go down to a 32 pilot jet and the 35 is a bit rich.

A few modest rolls on the throttle suggest I may need to lean-out (too rich) the needle jet by 1 grove.  I need to test ride it first to get a real idea.  I have the e-clip is in the 4th groove down from the top and I may need to move it up to the middle groove.

And the main jet is obviously a TBD.  But it seems right now that you are all around correct that my initial jetting is a bit rich.

Generally speaking it’s close and ridable.  Some test riding today.

Side Note: I was able to clean up the clutch position safety sensor and it’s working.  What I don’t understand is after I’ve pulled the clutch lever to push the pin and close the circuit, how does the bike stay running once the clutch is released and the pin compresses and opens the circuit again?  Is this purely a safety start circuit of the wiring?  The other S40s I had didn’t require pulling the clutch while in neutral to start.  Were those bikes already modded to bypass the switch?  I never checked it on the other bikes and I just assumed it didn’t need to have the clutch lever pulled to start while in neutral.
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« Last Edit: 05/06/24 at 08:55:16 by ThumperPaul »  
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Re: Keihin PWK38 Air Striker Carburetor Installati
Reply #23 - 05/06/24 at 11:18:48
 
First test ride update..  Running Rich...

The 35 pilot jet was best at 2.5 turns out on the A/F mix screw.  A 32 pilot jet will probably be better at something around 1 turn out.  The 35 is livable and idle is steady.

Mid-range on the needle 4th groove is a little rich.  Could be crisper.  May move the clip to the middle groove (a notch leaner).  I want to try a smaller main jet to see if it also helps in the mid-range.

WOT is RICH.  Starting around 3/4 to full throttle, it will bog.  I need to either get more air flow and/or try a 135 main or possibly a 132 main.

My goal here is I want to identify the right jetting for a stock bike using a PWK38 Air Striker.  I want this knowledge.  Once I scratch this itch, I'll be  moving forward to doing some modifications.

Otherwise, everything else was good.  Neutral to 1st gear is a little cranky - stubborn to go into 1st gear - took 2-3 bumps on a few occasions.  Sometimes it dropped in like butter.
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Re: Keihin PWK38 Air Striker Carburetor Installati
Reply #24 - 05/06/24 at 11:22:45
 
"What I don’t understand is after I’ve pulled the clutch lever to push the pin and close the circuit, how does the bike stay running once the clutch is released and the pin compresses and opens the circuit again?"

The clutch switch controls voltage to the decompression relay, not the ignition system.  So, the ignition system doesn't care if the clutch switch is open or closed.
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Re: Keihin PWK38 Air Striker Carburetor Installati
Reply #25 - 05/06/24 at 11:28:16
 
Regarding the jetting, only change one thing at a time.  Your post sounds like you are fixin to drop the needle and change the main jet all one crack.  You may end up goin back & forth a few times but it will be a better process and you will understand the carb better.  Change one thing, try it, then move on.  
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Re: Keihin PWK38 Air Striker Carburetor Installati
Reply #26 - 05/06/24 at 11:29:15
 
Thanks Mike.  This is much easier to understand than me trying to read a spaghetti wiring diagram!
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Re: Keihin PWK38 Air Striker Carburetor Installati
Reply #27 - 05/07/24 at 05:57:23
 
It’s not definitive yet, but generally speaking the Air Striker carb wants smaller jets to dial-in compared to a non-air-striker carb.

I swapped the 35 pilot jet to a 32.  This is favorable.  The 32 makes the idle speed screw adjustment much more responsive to changes.  A 1/8th turn of idle speed screw actually adjusts the idle speed.  With the 35, it took almost 1/2 turn to impact the idle speed.  I think I’m about 2 turns out on the air/fuel mix screw with the 32.  I was at 2.5 turns out on the 35.  I’m happy with the 32 and will call this Done aside from maybe a little fiddling with the A/F mix screw a bit..

Swapped out the 138 Main for a 135.  This didn’t achieve much to reduce the overly-rich condition and bog at 3/4-WOT.  I’m going to try a 130 next.

I didn’t move the e-clip from 4th groove from top to the middle groove on the needle yet.  It seems like this will be a necessary adjustment to get the mid-range dialed in.  But I want to get the main jet dialed in first to see what impact it will have when the needle is metering a smaller main jet.  The midrange may mostly correct itself with a smaller main jet.  Maybe, but saving the midrange adjustment for last (if I have to move the e-clip up a groove or not).

Getting closer.
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« Last Edit: 05/07/24 at 11:32:46 by ThumperPaul »  
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Re: Keihin PWK38 Air Striker Carburetor Installati
Reply #28 - 05/13/24 at 07:38:43
 
Update.  Today’s test iteration was 32 pilot, 135 main, and e-clip moved up to the middle groove (1 groove leaner than the 4th groove I had it in last try).  The change this go ‘round is the e-clip position on the needle.

Much better, but I still have a rich bog in the upper end of the midrange and WOT (3/4 throttle to WOT).  The low end of the midrange seems pretty good.

Next up is trying a 130 main.  I’m thinking this should alleviate the upper end rich bog without impacting the low midrange unfavorably.  We’ll see.
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Re: Keihin PWK38 Air Striker Carburetor Installati
Reply #29 - 05/13/24 at 09:14:14
 
Latest iteration has it close, but still not 100%.

32 pilot, 130 main, e-clip in middle groove.  The 130 main improved things somewhat.

It’s getting a bit perplexing now.  It’s almost intermittent now at the upper end 3/4-WOT.  I can kinda sneak up on WOT gently, but rolling on it hard will cause a stutter/bog and you can hear the richness.  The harder I roll on it, the more likely it is to bog.

I can’t decide if I should try a 128 main or move the e-clip up another groove.  The 128 seems small, but this air striker carb has a unique mind of its own (maybe this is the right next move).  But is a change from a 130 to 128 enough to make a real difference?  Should I try a 125?

Moving the e-clip up another groove concerns me that it could become too lean in the lower midrange.  Changing to a smaller main jet seems safer and will also slightly lean out the midrange (smaller main jet that the needle has to meter in the midrange).

Maybe a different needle with a more gradual taper is in order.  Thinking out loud here….

Cruising is smooth with ample throttle response and roll on power in the midrange.  It’s very rideable as long as I don’t try to hot rod it.  But I want the capablity to hot rod it!  lol.

Thoughts/suggestions anyone?  I’ve been through 6 iterations now.  Is the 7th time the charm?  What’s it going to be….

Side note: Nibbi sells a PWK38 Air Striker seemingly jetted for 4-strokes.  They include a 35 pilot and 3 main jets 130, 132, and 138.  To me, this tells me I’m in the right ballpark.  Other sellers of this PWKs have them shipped out with huge jets that imply a 2-stroke dirt bike setup (like this one came with a 55 pilot and 170 main!).

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