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Selecting a LiPoFe battery (Read 80 times)
FinnHammer
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Selecting a LiPoFe battery
03/16/24 at 12:44:02
 
I want to dump the heavy standard battery in favour of a LiPoFe battery.
It seems easy to select one that can deliver ample amperage to keep the starter happy, at least for starters (pun intended).
But what about the situation where the bike refuses to start at first, and you have to crank the engine over and over, will the LiPoFe battery hold enough charge to sustain that situation?

Standard battery specs:             12V / 14 Ah, 168 Wh, 180A (CCA)
Considering this LiPoFe battery:  12V /   3Ah, 38.4 Wh, 400A (CCA)

With the capacity to deliver 400A as opposed to the 180A of the lead acid battery, it certainly is able to turn the starter, but what about the 38.4 Wh as opposed to 168 Wh in the lead acid battery? Will it run out of steam too soon? This is hard to predict without knowing how many amperes the starter motor draws.
Cheers, Finn Hammer




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Dave
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Re: Selecting a LiPoFe battery
Reply #1 - 03/16/24 at 14:13:50
 
I put an EarthX battery in my bike 12 years ago, and it is still going fine.

I never have to crank my bike over and over and over.....and I suspect you won't have to either (unless maybe you park you bike outdoors in the winter).

There have been times when I needed to start my bike after it has sat outside in the campground over night and temps have dropped into the 50's, and it still starts instantly.  I set the choke and hit the starter button, and it is running in a couple of revolutions.  Your engine is going to be just as well tuned as mine is - and it will likely start just as quickly.

It could be that the EarthX battery supplies a fast spin of the starter and still maintains good voltage supply to the ignition system, and that helps with the quick starts.

https://www.batterymart.com/p-ltx12a-earthx-etx12a-battery.html?gclid=Cj0KCQj...
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FinnHammer
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Re: Selecting a LiPoFe battery
Reply #2 - 03/17/24 at 10:41:58
 
Thanks, Dave.
The battery you show is equivalent to the one I have in mind, so all should be fine.
Actually I do expect the bike to start like you say, my bad memories are from when I just picked the bike up, and the carburettor was set way standard lean, and sometimes hard to get going. I still don't understand how people put up with the crackle, shooting exhaust, even claiming that this is how a big single should behave.

Cheers, Finn Hammer
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ThumperPaul
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Re: Selecting a LiPoFe battery
Reply #3 - 03/19/24 at 06:59:00
 
I lost 15 pounds.  That was easier and cheaper than trying to trim 15lbs off the bike.

The 14AH vs 3AH would be most concerning to me.  And 400CCA is total overkill.

I bought a new Chinese aftermarket starter and it didn't provide any specs (imagine that).  I'm guessing the starter for our bike is rated at something like 0.5kw (42amp x 12volts).  You'd get quiet a few 2-3 second tries before depleting the battery.  With the ignition on, the headlight is on while not cranking, but it shuts off when the starter button is pressed.  To save battery power, it might be a good idea to turn off the ignition between starting attempts if you have to try starting more than 2-3 times.  I think you'll be fine even if you have to try 20-30 times (hopefully not).  Obviously wait about 10 seconds between attempts so you don't fry the starter (you know this).
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FinnHammer
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Re: Selecting a LiPoFe battery
Reply #4 - 03/19/24 at 08:33:29
 
ThumperPaul,

Thanks for a good primer. Sometimes I need a good primer to start thinking.
I will take your 42 amps on face value, next calculate how well the 3Ah battery will face up to that.
3Ah equals 3 x 60 x 60 = 10800As (Ampere seconds)
Time available to run starter: 10800/42 = 257 sec, or a bit more than 4 minutes, or 85 3sec. starter runs. There will be a lot to check up on before reaching a flat battery.
The headlight, (mine is a LED type drawing 40W) uses 3.3A so it can be on for almost one hour. Let's face it, almost any bike will face a discharged battery if the driver forgets to turn the headlights off, and leaves it.

I think if I use the inside of my head, 3Ah will suffice.
Comments about weight are well taken, but I am more on the hunt for more space to put air cleaner.

Cheers, Finn Hammer
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ThumperPaul
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Re: Selecting a LiPoFe battery
Reply #5 - 03/19/24 at 10:10:57
 
Glad you did the math!!  My 20-30 tries was obviously on the conservative side!  Seems like there is always something sucking power and allow for 25% inefficiency somewhere.

Relocating the battery and ditching the overly complicated battery box is a great plan!

Love your project!!  I've been following but it's all way over my head!
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Re: Selecting a LiPoFe battery
Reply #6 - 03/19/24 at 18:14:52
 
Im using a YTX9-BS, LiFePo4 12v/8ah/210cca, 1 lb.

Its been cranking fine for 8 months or so now.

Tiny in size. Totally hidden from view.  Have gone months without riding the bike and it starts up with extra cranking because of sticky carb.

Think I got it for $80.
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Re: Selecting a LiPoFe battery
Reply #7 - 03/19/24 at 19:30:01
 
I have an Antigravity AG-801 on my bike and I love it.  I installed it 4 years ago and I haven't touched it.  It's the second one I've had.  The first one lasted 4 years before I ruined it.  I ran it down a few times* and it didn't recover from the last time.  But they are amazing if you treat them right.

*I left the ignition or parking light on each time.   Embarrassed
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« Last Edit: 03/21/24 at 16:43:29 by ohiomoto »  
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Re: Selecting a LiPoFe battery
Reply #8 - 03/21/24 at 12:00:27
 

 Antigravity offers "Re-Start" models of some of their batteries, so you can't run them down and destroy them easily.

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Re: Selecting a LiPoFe battery
Reply #9 - 03/21/24 at 16:32:21
 
I want to say the Re-Sart series came out shortly after I got my second battery but it could have been that they didn't offer it in the same form factor that I built my bike around.  

It is also possible to revive the battery with a charger capable of balancing the cells.  I bought a replacement battery because I was in a hurry and the battery was only $40 more than the charger at the time.  I purchased the charger at some point but I forgot I had it.  I recently found it in a bin with my spare parts.  It will be interesting to see if it can save the first battery.  

Other than me being a dummy, my experience mirrors Dave's.  I'll never go back to Lead Acid or AGM batteries.
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Re: Selecting a LiPoFe battery
Reply #10 - 03/21/24 at 16:58:28
 
ThumperPaul wrote on 03/19/24 at 06:59:00:
The 14AH vs 3AH would be most concerning to me.  And 400CCA is total overkill.


Lithium Ah's are rated differently.  You want to look for the "Pb Eq" Ah rating.  
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Re: Selecting a LiPoFe battery
Reply #11 - 03/22/24 at 02:58:16
 
ohiomoto wrote on 03/21/24 at 16:58:28:
Lithium Ah's are rated differently.  You want to look for the "Pb Eq" Ah rating.  


The Earth-X battery has an internal system to balance the cells, and also prevents you from discharging the battery so far that the cells will be damaged.

Yes......it is interesting that a lead acid battery can only provide about 30% of the rated capacity!  A lead/acid battery drops voltage while it is cranking the battery and power is being used - a Lithium battery maintains the voltage until it is out of power.  A lead acid battery can still crank the starter - but not have enough voltage to energize the ignition system and provide a spark.  Here is a list of differences for the Lithium batteries from the Earth-X website.


Interesting facts about lithium

A lithium battery can use 100% of its storage capability (measured as Amp-Hour, Ah), while a lead-acid battery typically only uses 30%

A lithium battery’s voltage remains relatively constant while discharging, while voltage for a lead-acid battery decreases

A lithium battery’s cranking power will not drop-off, and it will crank your engine longer. But when the lithium battery runs out of power it does so abruptly, just like your lithium powered hand tools

LiFePO4 cells by the nature of their chemistry are 3.3 volt. 12V lithium batteries, like our motorsport batteries, are created by using 4 cells in series (technically it is a 13.2 volt battery). The lithium cells (in series) in a 12V battery pack diverge in both levels of charge and capacity with each charge/discharge cycle. This condition reduces the performance of the battery (reduces capacity) and can lead to overcharging or over discharging a cell.

The lithium cells (in series) in a 12V battery pack diverge in both levels of charge and capacity with each charge/discharge cycle. This condition reduces the performance of the battery (reduces capacity) and can lead to overcharging or over discharging a cell. A cell is permanently damaged if over charged or over discharged just one time. In the case of overcharging, cells can rupture, and the entire battery will need to be replaced


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