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I bought back my old bike. I have a few questions! (Read 175 times)
ThumperPaul
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Re: I bought back my old bike. I have a few questi
Reply #15 - 06/14/23 at 10:53:21
 
I feel your pain on the plug/cap leak.  The grime on the folk could be fork oil (bad seal) or it could be oil that spayed on it from the plug/cap leak.  You might try to isolate it by cleaning off the forks, then taping some plastic around the travel area of the forks.  Go for a ride.  When you return from the ride, check it.  If you get a mess on the outside of the plastic wrap, its from the plug/cap leak spraying it.  If it on the inside of the plastic, its the fork seal.  It may not do anything on the inside of the plastic if all the folk oil is already gone.  Are your front forks really spongy and soft?  That would be a sign of low fork oil.

Edit: I just looked at the photo of the forks more closely.  You are getting quite a bit of fork travel.  My travel is about half of that, but I ride pretty normal and don't nose dive the bike hard.  It also looks like the one fork boot (on the grimy side) is shinier and oilier than the other.  I'm more suspecting a fork seal leak.  I'd also expect to see a more equal amount of grime on both if the oil is coming from the plug/cap.
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« Last Edit: 06/14/23 at 12:07:57 by ThumperPaul »  
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Re: I bought back my old bike. I have a few questi
Reply #16 - 06/16/23 at 09:55:11
 
Managed to get my hands on a better picture. What will happen if I don’t fix this right away? This is my daily driver and I spent all my money getting the bike back because I love it so much. It’ll be a while before I can have a shop fix this and the carb.

Pic: https://imgur.com/a/bwwWk4d
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Re: I bought back my old bike. I have a few questi
Reply #17 - 06/16/23 at 21:27:39
 
Welcome back!
I do the same, buy and sell, and buy and sell
These are great bikes, very nimble and easy to ride
my favorite is that theyre really easy to work on

If the oil dribbles don't bother you then just clean it off for now and monitor the oil level.
You're probably losing barely any oil from that headplug sweat

Always check the oil level after the bike sits for a good while, you dont want to overfill the oil nor not have enough. It'll take you a few seconds to check it once you do it a few times

Some people check the oil level right after riding and don't see oil and add excessive amounts, then oil is pushed out from every crevis,especially the air box puke tube

I like the oil level above the lower line and below the top line, right in the middle is what I'm aiming for
Always check the oil with the bike off the kickstand and level


--Now the carburator,

I always replace the stock jets with brand new jets when I get a used bike, the pilot is very easy to get clogged
I would buy a jet set here on the marketplace and instal 52.5 pilot and 150 main, the bike will run good like that.

If you don't feel confident to rejetting the carburator yourslef then give it to someone to instal those jets, if the bike runs right now then new jets is all you need

Id you want to learn how to work on your bike then watch some YouTube videos, your most important  tool while doing the carburator jetting is a screwdriver,  go ahead and buy a #2 JIS -Japanese Industry Specific type, I like the brand Vessel

When you're ready for more theres all different write up on the head plug and you can buy an aluminum one in the marketplace
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ThumperPaul
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Re: I bought back my old bike. I have a few questi
Reply #18 - 06/17/23 at 09:44:18
 
For the carb...  You said it was rebuilt.  Did they make any jet changes?  Yoshi's advice on the jet sizes is sound proven advice.  BUT, do you have access to the air/fuel mix screw?  See the link below for location and details...  If you see a brass cap, you DON'T have access to the air/fuel mix screw.  It almost sounds like your air/fuel mixture could be off.  If the jets were changed, there is a 99% chance the air/fuel mixture is not correct.  This would cause poor idle and rough performance.  Or worse, the bike won't even start.  Even if the jets were not changed, the factory preset air/fuel mixture could be off after a rebuild of the carb and how well it was or wasn't cleaned.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1221818822
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Re: I bought back my old bike. I have a few questi
Reply #19 - 06/17/23 at 17:41:00
 
ThumperPaul wrote on 06/17/23 at 09:44:18:
For the carb...  You said it was rebuilt.  Did they make any jet changes?  Yoshi's advice on the jet sizes is sound proven advice.  BUT, do you have access to the air/fuel mix screw?  See the link below for location and details...  If you see a brass cap, you DON'T have access to the air/fuel mix screw.  It almost sounds like your air/fuel mixture could be off.  If the jets were changed, there is a 99% chance the air/fuel mixture is not correct.  This would cause poor idle and rough performance.  Or worse, the bike won't even start.  Even if the jets were not changed, the factory preset air/fuel mixture could be off after a rebuild of the carb and how well it was or wasn't cleaned.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1221818822



I contacted the previous owners. The owner said “just make it run like it’s supposed to.” So I have no idea. A couple years back a guy sent me a jet for me and I put it in and it ran a little better but not optimal. I’ll have to look up what’s going on.


Here’s some pics of the carb in the mean time: https://imgur.com/a/jOZtbrx
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ThumperPaul
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Re: I bought back my old bike. I have a few questi
Reply #20 - 06/17/23 at 18:24:10
 
This is your air/fuel mix screw.  It is exposed and ready to tinker with.  See the other link I sent.  Turning it clockwise will make the mix leaner.  Counterclockwise is richer.  Get the bike to idle as good as you can with the idle screw (I'm guessing you can find that).  Go for a short ride and get the engine warm and up to operating temp.  Now...with it idling, gentle move the Air/Fuel screw 1/8th to 1/4 turn counterclockwise (richer).  Pause...
Listen...  If the engine picks up RPMs in about 5 seconds stop.  If the rpm drop or the engine dies, go back to where you started.  Then go the other way (clockwise, leaner) and try the same thing.  You are trying to find the sweet spot where the rpms are max at the same low idle speed.  Once you get it better going in one direction, keep slowing going that way (slowly)...  When the rpms drop off, back off the other way about 1/8th - 1/4 turn or so until it sounds good again (highest rpm).  You may have to adjust the idle screw down once you find the sweet spot.  Be patient and do things slow and easy!  The engine may not respond immediately to the little adjustments you make.  Listen carefully to what's going to.  This is "dialing it in"...
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« Last Edit: 06/18/23 at 05:07:45 by ThumperPaul »  

Air_fuel_screw.jpeg
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ThumperPaul
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Re: I bought back my old bike. I have a few questi
Reply #21 - 06/17/23 at 18:26:20
 
Here are a couple very good technical articles.  I encourage you to spend some time getting better acquainted with the website.  There is a plethora of excellent info to learn from!!  

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1157720585

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1309246277
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Re: I bought back my old bike. I have a few questi
Reply #22 - 06/18/23 at 03:03:24
 
ThumperPaul wrote on 06/17/23 at 18:24:10:
This is your air/fuel mix screw.  It is exposed and ready to tinker with.  See the other link I sent.  Turning it clockwise will make the mix leaner.  Counterclockwise  is richer.  Get the bike to idle as good as you can with the idle screw (I'm guessing to got that).  Go for a short ride and get the engine warm and up to operating temp.  Now...with it idling, gentle move the Air/Fuel screw 1/8th to 1/4 turn counter clockwise (richer).  Pause...
Listen...  If the engine picks up RPM in about 5 seconds stop.  If the rpm drop or it dies, go back to start.  Then go the other way (clockwise, leaner) and try the same thing.  You are trying to find the sweet spot where the rpms are max.  Once you get it better going in one direction, keep slowing going that way (slowly)...  When the rpms drop off, go back about 1/4 turn or so until is sounds good again.  You may have to adjust the idle screw down once you find the sweet spot.  Be patient and do things slow and easy!  The engine may not respond immediately to the little adjustments you make.  Listen carefully to what's going to.  This is "dialing it in"...


I agree with what Thumperpaul has said.....however I believe you need to lower the idle speed to around 800rpm to properly adjust the fuel/air mixture. (At the normal idle speed of 1,100 rpm the slide is up a bit and adding fuel/air......it is impossible to make an accurate adjustment of the idle fuel/air screw).

Get the bike fully warmed up and and hold it upright so the cam oils properly (the left side of the cam starves for oil when running on the sidestand).  Drop the idle speed down to around 800, adjust the mixture screw for the smoothest idle, then raise the idle speed back up to 1,100 rpm.  This adjustment should take a minute or less once you get used to doing it.  Once set......you should not have to change it again - however you can experiment by moving it 1/4 turn either way while riding and see if it affects the amount of noise from the muffler when you close the throttle or shut the bike off.

Here is a good video that illustrates the sound you are looking for while adjusting the fuel/air screw.  It is a Honda - but the sound you are listening for is the same.




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Re: I bought back my old bike. I have a few questi
Reply #23 - 06/18/23 at 18:47:08
 
Dave wrote on 06/18/23 at 03:03:24:
ThumperPaul wrote on 06/17/23 at 18:24:10:
This is your air/fuel mix screw.  It is exposed and ready to tinker with.  See the other link I sent.  Turning it clockwise will make the mix leaner.  Counterclockwise  is richer.  Get the bike to idle as good as you can with the idle screw (I'm guessing to got that).  Go for a short ride and get the engine warm and up to operating temp.  Now...with it idling, gentle move the Air/Fuel screw 1/8th to 1/4 turn counter clockwise (richer).  Pause...
Listen...  If the engine picks up RPM in about 5 seconds stop.  If the rpm drop or it dies, go back to start.  Then go the other way (clockwise, leaner) and try the same thing.  You are trying to find the sweet spot where the rpms are max.  Once you get it better going in one direction, keep slowing going that way (slowly)...  When the rpms drop off, go back about 1/4 turn or so until is sounds good again.  You may have to adjust the idle screw down once you find the sweet spot.  Be patient and do things slow and easy!  The engine may not respond immediately to the little adjustments you make.  Listen carefully to what's going to.  This is "dialing it in"...


I agree with what Thumperpaul has said.....however I believe you need to lower the idle speed to around 800rpm to properly adjust the fuel/air mixture. (At the normal idle speed of 1,100 rpm the slide is up a bit and adding fuel/air......it is impossible to make an accurate adjustment of the idle fuel/air screw).

Get the bike fully warmed up and and hold it upright so the cam oils properly (the left side of the cam starves for oil when running on the sidestand).  Drop the idle speed down to around 800, adjust the mixture screw for the smoothest idle, then raise the idle speed back up to 1,100 rpm.  This adjustment should take a minute or less once you get used to doing it.  Once set......you should not have to change it again - however you can experiment by moving it 1/4 turn either way while riding and see if it affects the amount of noise from the muffler when you close the throttle or shut the bike off.

Here is a good video that illustrates the sound you are looking for while adjusting the fuel/air screw.  It is a Honda - but the sound you are listening for is the same.






Thank you, but I don’t know what RPM’s I’m at, I’m totally blind. There’s no tac. I’m scared to touch anything on the carb. I really feel like I’m gonna screw it up more than it is.

In other news, I’ve got a fork seal leak, The bike ran pretty well today, not really backfiring, starts right up…I dumped some carb cleaner in the gas tank a few days ago, and it’s improving the performance I think…but the bike gets so hot and it’s running rich, I know it is. It’s high idle at high speeds. The vibration is bad. Like when I turn the throttle more than half way, it feels like it’s gonna vibrate and the rpm is really fast. I’m scared it’ll blow up. However, I’d I’m easy on the throttle, it’s fine. I lost my air vent cover on the road today. Not the medal one that’s the color of the bike, the one that actually covers the vent. I’m so sad as it’s an OEM part, original to that bike. I can’t find it anywhere. I live in a small town and traced my riding but it’s totally gone. I drained some gas out of the carb from the bottom, where the float is, that screw. Looked at the gas and it’s got some stuff floating around in it, small particles, couple bugs. The gas tank needs to be cleaned, there’s a surface layer of rust setting in, I’m unsure of the condition inside the tank down around where the petcock is. I want to either buy a new tank or have it cleaned. I also hit 17,000 miles today! Also can someone point to me where the puke tube is?
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