So the turn signals and heater fan are inop. A almost totally manual heater. On the engine is a screw valve to turn off water flow to heater , my Scout 800 had same thing but also had a cable valve. I replaced screw valve with a set of ball valves with the lever , now can isolate coolant in heater from engine but intime core will warm up. So to turn heater on open hood , reach in between the “arm burner” exhaust and the spinning fan and the flip levers , close the hood , get in turn on blower motor , get out open passenger door adjust the two manual vent doors , close door , get back in , oh yeah wait for it to warm up while you towel dry the wind shield just to pass the time . Defroster ahh        ahh        ahhh it has vents coming up and     now if you want defrost do the Chinese fire drill again and close vent doors to get more air flow to defroster that is always on anyways. It’s got a fan knob , off then it’s like a volume control , some bad maybe melted wire. For cooling on a hot day turn off the under hood ball valves , turn vent windows in , open vent in front of windshield , big asz bug catcher but it does have a screen that promptly disassembles the bugs and distributes them at you feet.  Ford , a better idea ?        

If it's old enough to have a single pot master cylinder, you Ottsta get a two pot one.
Much safer.

I was in a wire line truck, leaving a parking lot, as I got to the road,I hit the brakes,and nothing happened. It LOOKED Just Like an Emergency, so,I grabbed the E brake,,, Yeah,, Nutthhin.. I rolled out into a major North bound road praying I wasn't gonna be on the news. Because One brake cylinder failed. They towed it to the shop. I replaced the one pot master cylinder and all four brake cylinders.
They called me Motorpool. I did the bodywork,mechanical work,electrical and operated equipment, rebuilt the triplex and centrifugal pumps, kinda did it all..and drove the 18 wheelers.