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Evolution of a Hotrod - Part 2: The Airbox (Read 308 times)
DragBikeMike
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Re: Evolution of a Hotrod - Part 2: The Airbox
Reply #30 - 05/16/21 at 01:06:08
 
For under $20 bucks you can make dramatic improvements to drivability and acceleration.  Nothing has to be permanently modified.  It still uses the stock air filter element.  It can be restored to the completely stock condition in a few hours.  It’s not noisy.  Fuel economy is still good.  Almost 9 seconds off the 5th gear pass.  What’s not to like?

I know this rejet mod is well documented.  There are several posts on the forum that give you the step-by-step.  But I have never seen any posts that test the modifications and report measurable data.  I wanted to do the mod starting from scratch, and then test it to show what you can expect.  You can see from the acceleration test data that this simple modification makes a big difference in performance.  It really is a lot of bang for the bucks.

Next, I want to move on to the exhaust system.  I think that will force me to take a hard look at the stock carburetor.  I can tell that it’s fuel delivery is grossly restricted by the stock needle.  Some simple measurements and calculations show that the stock needle limits the maximum main jet to about a #155.  Jets larger than #155 don’t have much effect on the air/fuel ratio.  As I amp up the air flow through the engine, I think it will shine light on the carburetor and force me to address the slide needle.

I hope some of you find this project informative and can use the data I collect to help make decisions on your own project.  If you have suggestions or comments on my test methods, post a reply so we can discuss.   As mentioned earlier, if you have a particular component or modification that you would like to see included, let me know and we can collaborate.
 
Best regards, Mike                
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Dave
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Re: Evolution of a Hotrod - Part 2: The Airbox
Reply #31 - 05/16/21 at 09:55:11
 
DragBikeMike:

Since you are located at Sea Level.....your #55 Pilot Jet might be an acceptable level of "rich:".

For those of us who live at higher elevations - it likely would be overly rich.  On most of the bikes I have worked on a #50 works fine - only on one bike did I feel that the #52.5 ran better.  (The elevations where I live range from 500MSL down at the Ohio River - to 825 MSL at the hilltops, and I have never needed to use a #55 Pilot Jet).
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zipidachimp
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Re: Evolution of a Hotrod - Part 2: The Airbox
Reply #32 - 05/16/21 at 14:48:24
 
This seems to be an appropriate time to ask:
what is the purpose of an extended manifold between carb and cylinder:
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HIQW94ZRtdg/TjlLwWPjITI/AAAAAAAAAe0/-k7UQSKJsrg/s16...

50 years ago I raced a 250 Ducati single with a 3" manifold. No one could explain what it did, but it ran better with it than without. Would an S40 perform the same?
Cheers!  Cool
ps: https://www.eurojamb.com/products/amal-gp-carb-manifold-webco-norton-bsa-350-...
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« Last Edit: 10/10/21 at 12:17:04 by zipidachimp »  
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Evolution of a Hotrod - Part 2: The Airbox
Reply #33 - 05/16/21 at 14:54:15
 
Great comment Dave.  I’m glad you brought up elevation, and also glad you shared your view on pilot jet size.  My neighborhood is 627 feet above sea level.  I do my acceleration tests at 1014 feet above sea level.  My riding is limited to a range of about 5 feet above sea level to 1168 feet above sea level.  You’re correct, I’ve got a pretty good column of atmospheric pressure and can probably tolerate a little more jet than the folks in Denver.

I was curious why you recommend a pilot jet smaller than 52.5.  Then I remembered that the early model carburetors were set up a lot different from the later models.
 
The parts fiche shows that the carbs from 1986 through 1995 came with a #47.5 pilot jet.  Only one pilot air bleed is shown.  It’s piece 12 and is identified as a #70.  The factory service manual lists the pilot air bleeds as a 2mm and a #67.5.  That tells me the early model carbs had a fixed 2mm air bleed (probably just a drilled hole) and a replaceable pilot air bleed (#67.5 or #70).

I have a 2016.  My as-delivered pilot jet was a #52.5, and my pilot air bleeds were #45 & #230 (pieces 12 & 40, both removable jets).  That thing ran about as lean as you could get and still be able to operate.  As delivered, it ran terrible.  It didn’t care if it was at sea level or all the way up on the Pali Lookout 1168 feet above the ocean.  It took forever to warm up to a point where it could be ridden, and even then, it ran terrible.  I can’t imagine putting a smaller pilot jet in that thing.

Note that my air mixture screw remains at 2 turns, exactly where I found it when I drilled out the plug.  My idle starts to drop when I turn the screw in ½ turn.  I think that’s just about right.  There’s almost no afterfire.  I can get a puff of black smoke if I start continuously blipping the throttle (it starts about the fourth or fifth blip).  That’s just the muffler loading up.  Idle is smooth and steady.  Response is excellent.

Do you think it’s possible your experience with the stock carburetor is associated with an early model carb, the one with the different pilot air bleeds?  Do you think I’m overlooking something?  Most comments I’ve seen on the forum report extremely lean as-delivered mixtures, so switching to a smaller pilot jet doesn’t seem logical.  I’m not trying to be a jerk; I just want to make sure I’m not missing something.  This is a good discussion, and it deserves a little more exploration.
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Evolution of a Hotrod - Part 2: The Airbox
Reply #34 - 05/16/21 at 15:00:05
 
Zipidachimp, I have some reference books that discuss the intake tract length.  It's not something I have studied much, but I know Batman was big on that particular modification.  I believe he felt that he achieved some good results.  As far as I know, it doesn't make too much difference whether or not you install a spacer between the carb & head, or you just extend length by adding an airhorn or velocity stack.  It's a tuning type thing that can alter performance over a specific range of operation.  I'll look over my books and see what I can come up with.  Thanks for the suggestion.
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Re: Evolution of a Hotrod - Part 2: The Airbox
Reply #35 - 05/16/21 at 15:49:15
 
In the case of the stock carb, I believe it's important to have the 'air horn' at least the length of the rubber duckie between the carb and airbox to straighten out the air flow.  But it maybe needed to make the 'eyebrow' port work correctly.
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Re: Evolution of a Hotrod - Part 2: The Airbox
Reply #36 - 05/16/21 at 16:07:26
 
DragBikeMike wrote on 05/16/21 at 14:54:15:
Do you think it’s possible your experience with the stock carburetor is associated with an early model carb, the one with the different pilot air bleeds?  


All of the carbs I worked on had a #47.5 pilot jet installed when I took them apart to clean and re-jet.  The increase to a #50 Pilot, 3 washers in place of the white spacer on the needle, and a #150 main was a drastic improvement in how they ran.  On one bike it was necessary to bump up to a #52.5 pilot, and on my own bike the #50 was fine but I had to take out one washer and only run two before I could correct the mid throttle surging (I tried a larger pilot jet but it didn't cure the issue and a #50 pilot and two washers was the cure).
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Evolution of a Hotrod - Part 2: The Airbox
Reply #37 - 05/17/21 at 09:42:22
 
Dave:

It sounds like those carburetors you worked on were all pre-1996.  By any chance, did you take any photos?  I think it would be a valuable piece of info to capture and share.  Seems to me, the older versions (pre-1996) need a #50 pilot jet, while the newer versions (post-1996) need a #55 pilot jet.  That would be good info to share.  Since the factory service manual and parts fiche aren’t perfectly in agreement, photos would be the best reference to differentiate between the old & new versions of the carb.  This is the pilot air bleed arrangement for the late model carbs.  Two removable pilot air bleeds, a #45 and a #230.  If anyone has photos of the pilot air bleeds on an older carb, please post so we can all see what it looks like.
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Air_Bleeds_Pilot_markup2.jpg

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Re: Evolution of a Hotrod - Part 2: The Airbox
Reply #38 - 05/17/21 at 21:01:08
 
My bike has a 150 main jet and a 52.5 pilot jet The pilot screw is open 2 turns
A dyna catalyst muffler is fitted. The carb  needle has a half thickness washer Today I stripped the carb slide out to confirm the washer thickness It measured 1.52 mm
I reassembled the carb and removed the airbox door and went for a test ride'  First thing I noticed was the different sound slightly louder but deeper
The difference in performance was quite noticeable and if all these  mods were done at once to a stock bike I believe the difference would be dramatic.
I am very pleased with the result. I may have to change or clean the air filter more often but well worth it I think
Thanks again to Drag Bike Mike for his efforts
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Re: Evolution of a Hotrod - Part 2: The Airbox
Reply #39 - 05/19/21 at 22:06:02
 
Hiko, I'm glad the mod worked good for you.  Sounds like you ended up with a .06" washer (1.52mm).

Can you tell us what year your bike is?  Do you have two removable brass pilot air bleeds under the diaphragm, or only one pilot air bleed?  Can you tell us what size your pilot air bleeds are?  If you have an older carb (pre-1996), can you post pictures of the area under the diaphragm?  Is your slide needle the older style 5C16 with three grooves?  If so, what groove is your e-Clip installed in?

Thanks for the feedback.

Best regards,

Mike
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Re: Evolution of a Hotrod - Part 2: The Airbox
Reply #40 - 05/20/21 at 22:06:15
 
My bike is a 2006 but was not registered until 2012 and then hardly used at all until I got it in 2018 when it had 2800 km on it
There is only one groove in the carb needle and the washer fitted is a plastic one I made at 1.52 mm to replace the original plastic one
I did not take much notice of the air jets under the diaphragm so not sure what they are like one or two I played around with the pilot screw tuning today but to be fair with the bike hot and the idle slow there did not seem to be a lot of change from one turn out to nearly three so left it at about 21/4
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Re: Evolution of a Hotrod - Part 2: The Airbox
Reply #41 - 05/21/21 at 10:24:38
 
Thanks for sharing Hiko.
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