Hey Guys,
out of nowhere one of the top head bolts is starting to leak.
i allready swapped out a new copper washer, it did work for a bit and now it started to leak again..
i can see it pooling below the bolts head, i cannot tighten the bolt more. (it will simply not bottem out)

the leak started out of nowhere, i haven't worked on the engine/top head.

(the headplug is not the problem, i fixed this half a year ago with the new solid version)

Thanks in advance guys!!

Pray you got the wrong bolt in that hole and it is really too short..
Be honest,, when you were goin back together, did ya feel the required torque drop in the last half a turn?

Id pull the bolt
take a piece of wire and find the bottom of that hole
measure that depth,, mark the wire
see if the wire is longer than the bolt
Hope like hellll it is,, by at least the diameter of the bolt, longer.
Then Id heat the washer to glowing and drop it in water
get a longer bolt,,
and Go Back Very gently,,
and use a very finely applied bit of the right sealer,, not RTV,,

Daaaayumm,, forgot about that,,
Yeah.. what he said..
Still think you should try to go longer,, on the bolt,,

The washer should have a rubber seal on the inside......if that rubber is damaged or old and brittle it could also allow a leak.

You could try cleaning everything up and place a small amount of sealer under the bolt when you put it back in.

Thanks guys for all the replies!
I did feel the drop when getting it on torque,
When i did the oil plug upgrade i did print out the template, so i could stick all the bolts on the right spot with the cardboard trick..
I measured the bolt and it is the correct L130 one..
nuts, sounds logic with the copper ring instead of gasket ring, will try it!!

“ i cannot tighten”
Haha, understand this sounds concerning, but i was not trying to gorilla grip it, it will simply won’t reach a point where you feel the slightest pressure

Thanks guys! Love this forum and have been lurking for years here.

Will try i slightly longer bolt, with the correct coated seal ring!

If it won’t work i will go the helicoil route...

is the slightly longer bolt still worth a shot?

You have to determine that

Wire
Measure depth
Compare to your bolt
Is the hole deeper enough to get a longer bolt in it?
If threads go down another distance equal to the bolt diameter, youve got a shot.
If ya cant Buy a Bolt the exact length to use what threads ya have, get one too long put a nut on it, cut it to length, remove the nut, and the threads are straightened up..

When tightening stuff, dont think about Tightening
Youre creating a Clamping Force,,
Every bolt involved in that needs to be used with the others equally, all thru the torquing process,, Its much better to spend too much time getting something put together because instead of running a torque pattern twice you decided to incrementally increase torque by running the pattern five times,,
Its easier to fix a leak later than repair something stripped or twisted off..
Once the bolts have landed and the mating surfaces are in full contact, youll FEEL the bolts.
Thumb on 1/4" ratchet head, open fingers on handle, closing fingers slowly, making a fist,,no torque wrenc required here..

Inexperienced people shuld go buy some bolts and whatnot, Put something in a vise, run a bolt thru, feel what a bolt feels like,,just before it dies,, Feel what it does when parts are fully clamped,,
I wish someone had told me to do that when I was a teen..

Its not a race
You win by not building yourself a beartrap


OHH,, IF youre running a pattern and get to a bolt that says its done turning
DONT try to get another 1/4 turn on it,, go on with the pattern,

You are not the only one who has ever had this problem.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1562996383/0#0

I helped one of our members who was local to me with a repair using a threaded rod to replace the bolt.  The threaded rod was a bit longer than the stock bolt, and I had slightly tapered and cut two grooves in the end of the rod to help cut new threads.  I used a 6mm barrel nut with a short screw on top to allow me to turn the rod as it was being installed.  I first installed the rod until it got snug, then gave it a 1/16th turn and gave a firm tap with a hammer, then continued until the threaded rod was pretty snug.  The stud has to be just long enough that you can install the sealing washer and an acorn nut on top to get things sealed.  It worked on this engine.......the member never really was too active after that thread and never gave a long term report.
(Unfortunately the photos that were posted on TinyPic are gone and I don't believe I kept the original ones).

Trying to install a helicoil repair with the engine together is likely impossible, especially since this is an oil passage and any shavings left in the hole could move up into the head cover where they will get to the cam/rockers.

I am not a fan of most airbrush work (too juvenile) and you're right, it is horrible!!  But that's the beauty of your bike.  Woking with what you got and somehow making it cool.  People do far less with much more.  haha