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Big Bore Engine - Part 4 - Crankcase (Read 147 times)
DragBikeMike
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 4 - Crankcase
Reply #30 - 08/20/20 at 01:39:43
 
I cleaned all the old sealant off the sealing surfaces, wiped out any crud, and verified all the accessible bearings turned free.  The oil pump turned smooth and there wasn’t any junk in the suction strainer.  Everything seemed fine.

Time to reassemble.  Make sure that the special o-ring in the trans bearing oil feed is in the left-hand case.  Sorry, I didn’t get a proper photo of the o-ring placement.  It seals this oil passage.
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Trans_Oil_Feed_O-ring_2.jpg

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DragBikeMike
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 4 - Crankcase
Reply #31 - 08/20/20 at 01:40:40
 
I will be using the clutch nut to jack the input shaft bearing onto the input shaft, and the primary drive gear nut to jack the right-hand main bearing onto the crankshaft.

To keep the input shaft from turning while I turn the clutch nut, I place the transmission in 5th gear and clamp a vice-grip onto the output shaft.   Strips of soft-roll copper tubing protect the splines on the output shaft.
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Output_Shaft_Lock_22.jpg

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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 4 - Crankcase
Reply #32 - 08/20/20 at 01:41:24
 
A similar problem exists on the crankshaft.  As you tighten the nut to jack the bearing over the shaft, the crank will try to rotate.  You can hold back the crank with a small wooden block and the wrist pin.
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 4 - Crankcase
Reply #33 - 08/20/20 at 01:42:58
 
Apply a nice uniform coat of sealant (I like Permatex Optimum Grey or Black) to the right-hand case sealing surfaces and then carefully lower the right-hand case down over the crankshaft and trans input shaft.

Use the clutch nut to jack the inner race of the transmission bearing onto the input shaft.  You do that by stacking up spacers and/or washers on the shaft such that when you tighten the nut the spacers and washers push on the inner race.  As you run out of threads, you remove the nut and add more spacers/washers.  Go slow.  You must work back & forth between the crankshaft and input shaft to draw the case down evenly, keeping the case halves parallel with each other.

Here’s what my input shaft jacking setup looked like.   The tubular piece with the small oil hole is the stock clutch spacer.  The rest are just washers and spacers I dug out of my junk pile.
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Case_RH_Installation_Input_Shaft_Jack2.jpg

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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 4 - Crankcase
Reply #34 - 08/20/20 at 01:43:40
 
Here’s what my crankshaft jacking setup looked like.  I think you get the idea.  Just sandwich stuff between the nut and the bearing race.  As long as the faces of the spacer are smooth & parallel it should work fine.
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Case_RH_Installation_Crank_Jack2.jpg

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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 4 - Crankcase
Reply #35 - 08/20/20 at 01:44:22
 
You work back & forth between the two shafts, evenly drawing the bearings onto the shafts.   Like a half-turn on the clutch nut, then a half-turn on the primary drive nut.  Back & forth, slowly closing up the gap, keeping the case halves parallel.  I really like the Permatex Optimum Grey sealant because it doesn’t set up right away.  It allows plenty of time to get the joint closed up.
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Case_RH_Installation_Jacks_2.jpg

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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 4 - Crankcase
Reply #36 - 08/20/20 at 01:45:10
 
Once the joint is closed all the way, install a few case-bolts and verify that the shafts turn free.  If the shafts turn free, install all the case-bolts and tighten them up properly.  Your sealant squeeze-out should look like this.
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 4 - Crankcase
Reply #37 - 08/20/20 at 01:46:39
 
The crank turns free.  No unusual grinding noise.  Trans shifts through all five gears.  No problem finding neutral.  I let the sealant set up several days and did another leak test.  It was all good, no leaks.  So now its oil tight and I have some degree of confidence in the balancer drive, plus I have a tool to periodically check the drive pin.  I guess that’s better than nothing.  All set to start engine assembly.

I hope you find this report informative.  As always, I welcome your questions & comments.  Knowledge is power.

Best regards,

Mike
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 4 - Crankcase
Reply #38 - 08/20/20 at 01:52:46
 
Its cool having a tutorial,,
I just never wanna need it,,
Whats a
BRG DRiver?

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DragBikeMike
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 4 - Crankcase
Reply #39 - 08/20/20 at 02:13:17
 
I suspect "BRG DRiver" would be "bearing driver".  

I also hope you never "need" the tutorial.  But in the event you ever "want" to tear open that lower end, I hope this makes it a bit easier.

I simply can't help myself.  I just love nuts-n-bolts.  Wink
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 4 - Crankcase
Reply #40 - 08/20/20 at 04:35:20
 
Mike, It would be great if you could make a "table of contents" type post with a listing of all of your topics.  It should be locked and sticky'd up top for reference.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 4 - Crankcase
Reply #41 - 08/20/20 at 06:06:18
 
"BRG DRiver" would be "bearing driver".

well DUHH,, dont I feel smart now,,
I almost wish you just acted like ya didnt even see it now,,
Wadda Maroon!

Is this when Im suppposed to say thanks?


OOOOOKay,, thanks,,
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 4 - Crankcase
Reply #42 - 08/20/20 at 11:11:57
 
ohiomoto wrote on 08/20/20 at 04:35:20:
Mike, It would be great if you could make a "table of contents" type post with a listing of all of your topics.  It should be locked and sticky'd up top for reference.  


You are not the only person to suggest that. There is a lot of valuable information that is getting buried and hard to find among all of the other topics. Maybe a new section called "modifications" for those kinds of posts would be a good idea. It would make the posts easier to find.
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