The side is stuck - probably wasn't reassembled correctly. BTW, not that it would make it go WOT, but what jets did you put tin the carb? I would never just use some random jets hat came in a kit.

Ok, found the issue... Throttle cable worked up from its cable end seat on the carb.
The throttle had rolled and snapped back which made me believe it wasn't binding.
I probably caught it when I was shifting the tank side to side moving it forward into place...
Its idling good so far, so once warm, I'll read into setting mixture and idle.


As for jets Gary, I'm not positive on all the correct names. The kit didn't have any number on their jets, so I swapped them if they looked identical.

I reused the original #145 main jet in the float bowl. Nothing in the kit matched.

Reused the original #230 Pilot air jet in the top... its replacement orifice was smaller.
90 degrees around from that on top I replaced the #45 which looked choked.

I replaced the needle and put it on the middle clip setting that closely matched the one clip position on the original.

The new O-ring and fuel filter cap went on the original float valve seat (jet?). I cleaned the cone best I could,..
the new one had a much smaller diameter lip that the filter wouldn't snap to it.
I did replace the float valve (piston?) that attaches to the float.

Also, I reused the old float bowl gasket,..
Though looking identical, the new one was too big in dimensions and wouldn't sit in the carb lips without puckering excessively... kinda like it was made from a photo image but came out as 105%. center of mounting holes was slightly expanded.

original issue solved, hi rpm gone...
and so far it died after warmed and running off choke for a lil bit...


I turned up idle and it runs then fumbles.
each restart I keep doing that and it continues..


IE:... if I give a slight throttle increase and hold, it smooths momentarily then stumbles, then I increase throttle little more, same result, add and repeat as the throttle position climbs... so it's looking for more air.

I ended up backing out the mix screw to 4 1/2 turns to lean and it got better .. but still not smooth or enough to remain idling

I shot a lil bit starting fluid into air box to simulate a richer mix and it stalled..
So my guess is it's way to rich and fouling out (no backfires)
don't like that i'm so far out from 2 1/2 turns mix  

What Justin said ,backing out the mix screw adds fuel ,not air. I hope you saved all the parts you took out, the kit you ordered not being correct, you should have cleaned the stock parts and reused them (except for my main jet, I have for 25 years). You say you swapped jet needles - bad move ! especially if you didn't swap the matching needle jet ( the cylinder the needle jet slides into) . and I'd  suspect the kit didn't contain the right one for this bike anyway , allowing an improper  fuel flow to enter the carb ( and make sure the brass washer is fitted between the main jet and the needle jet to hold it firmly up into the carb body). I'd also return to all stock jets , not unmarked jets from the new kit, the old jets can be soaked /sprayed with carb cleaner and reamed with strands of copper electric wire- lamp cord? ( copper is softer than the brass jets so won't harm them).

Yep, should have kept and cleaned the stock parts, and not just the jets.  All the holes in the carb body also need to be chased to insure they are clear and free flowing.  There are quite a few and many are “tiny”.
Then try starting and after a considerable warm up period tune the pilot screw.

That is your starting point.

And when you address the float valve you'll need to remove the float ( the pin only comes out in one direction -there's a head on one end, the other is slightly tapered)  then remove the horseshoe shaped retainer so you can slide out the valve seat to check the o-ring on the outside of it ,(if it's old /damaged fuel will leak around the valve and flood the bowl)  .then check the tip of the valve ,if there's a circle grove in the tip it's worn and the valve and seat need replacement (they're sold as a matching set). don't forget to set the float level last.

LiftdT4R,
Yea amazon kit purchase, said it was the one available for the LS650...
(Actually had an issue with a chrome battery that the posts were to big, had to clip one side of the terminal...)

But, similar issue with the carb kit, think i described most... so the new inlet screen i put on the origional valve... and with just using the needle i used origional clip depth which was the middle position.

I'll have to wait for this or next wekend to get back to it...
here's the original clean disassembly and reassembly