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Valve & Guide Test - Budget Flow Bench (Read 216 times)
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Re: Valve & Guide Test - Budget Flow Bench
Reply #15 - 10/01/18 at 18:38:16
 
The bushing gets inserted from inside the 4” pipe.

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Re: Valve & Guide Test - Budget Flow Bench
Reply #16 - 10/01/18 at 18:39:18
 
Then a piece of rubber hose is pushed over the bushing.  The hose holds the bushing in place and serves as a flexible connector for the vacuum cleaner hose.

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Re: Valve & Guide Test - Budget Flow Bench
Reply #17 - 10/01/18 at 18:40:16
 
Drill two 5/16” holes in each section of 4” pipe.  These holes will be used for installation of the vacuum tees.  The holes are located about 2” from the edge of the pipe section.  Make sure the edge of the coupling does not overlap the holes when the coupling is fully seated.

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Re: Valve & Guide Test - Budget Flow Bench
Reply #18 - 10/01/18 at 18:41:14
 
Modify the 3/16” vacuum tees by plugging two of the three holes in each tee with small screws.  Then drill four .040” holes (#60 drill bit) in each Tee as shown.  Epoxy the vacuum tees into the holes.  Be careful not to plug the small .040” holes with epoxy.

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Re: Valve & Guide Test - Budget Flow Bench
Reply #19 - 10/01/18 at 18:42:12
 
Here’s what the tees look like once epoxied into the pipe.  Note the small .040” holes.  

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Re: Valve & Guide Test - Budget Flow Bench
Reply #20 - 10/01/18 at 18:43:21
 
The 4” test plugs will be used to make orifice plates of various sizes to suit the flow requirements of whatever you wish to test.  You will select an orifice that can provide a flow that will result in a reading on the inclined manometer that falls somewhere within about 55 – 85 % at the desired test pressure (ideally 15” H2O) read on the u-tube manometer.

Here's a picture of a blank test plug.



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Re: Valve & Guide Test - Budget Flow Bench
Reply #21 - 10/01/18 at 18:44:17
 
Here is a picture of several orifices made from test plugs.

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Re: Valve & Guide Test - Budget Flow Bench
Reply #22 - 10/01/18 at 18:46:12
 
Orifice sizes and their associated flow are as follows:

51.85 mm = 209.5 CFM
42.38 mm = 139.5 CFM
29.98 mm = 70.4 CFM
21.16 mm = 35.5 CFM
9.92 mm = 7.8 CFM

You can make orifice plates with several sizes of holes and combine the flows to get a desired total flow.  For instance, if you use a plate with one 21.16 mm hole and one 9.92 mm hole, the orifice plate flow rating will be 43.3 CFM (21.16 + 7.8 = 43.3).  When you do a test, if you want to get a feel for how much air you are moving simply read the percentage indicated on your inclined manometer and multiply the orifice flow rating by the percentage.  Keep in mind that the contraption isn’t calibrated.  I also did not follow all the specifics outlined in the DTec article.  It’s intended primarily to show whether mods result in improved flow, and to be able to do meaningful comparisons.  If you are looking to capture precise flow numbers, this ain’t the tool for you.

The orifice plate gets installed next.  The size will depend on what you are testing.  More on that later.



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Re: Valve & Guide Test - Budget Flow Bench
Reply #23 - 10/01/18 at 18:47:10
 
Then install the 4” coupling.

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Re: Valve & Guide Test - Budget Flow Bench
Reply #24 - 10/01/18 at 18:48:15
 
Next install the upper section of 4” ABS pipe.

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Re: Valve & Guide Test - Budget Flow Bench
Reply #25 - 10/01/18 at 18:49:09
 
And then either the closet flange,

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Re: Valve & Guide Test - Budget Flow Bench
Reply #26 - 10/01/18 at 18:50:00
 
or adapters to suit whatever you are testing.

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Re: Valve & Guide Test - Budget Flow Bench
Reply #27 - 10/01/18 at 18:51:05
 
The flow source for the rig is a ShopVac.  Most of us have one of these.  To have fine control over the test pressure you will have to drill a few holes in the vacuum and install bleed valves.

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Re: Valve & Guide Test - Budget Flow Bench
Reply #28 - 10/01/18 at 18:52:03
 
Don’t worry, the holes are easy to plug.  If you don’t want to spring the big bucks for the valves, you can make inexpensive bleed valves from PVC pipe and fittings.

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Re: Valve & Guide Test - Budget Flow Bench
Reply #29 - 10/01/18 at 18:52:58
 
Use a short section of pipe with a coupling slipped over.  Sand out the bore in the coupling until it slips easily over the pipe.  It needs to rotate freely.  Then drill big holes through the pipe and coupling.  When you rotate the coupling, you close off the hole.

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