A few ques guys. My carb has been soaking for a few days and will be going back on shortly. My clutch basket assembly and tire have also arrived.

Is this post the most comprehensive “to do” for clutch replacement? http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1262974235

My clutch is fried so wondering if I need to pull the entire assembly (basket and all) and risk messing with the oil pump gear or if I would be ok simply soaking my replacement plates and replacing the internal parts. What say you guys?

Also, I’ve decided to install everything and run some rosella t thru the engine a few times in lieu of the diesel soak,  thinking bc the rust seems to have been at the bottom of my clutch case that the water never really rose high enough to do real damage to my engine but we shall see. I had a very trusted mechanic friend of mine (25+ yrs as a navy motorcycle instructor and mechanic) come check it out and give me a second opinion and he advised running the oil thru and changing the oil and filter out a few times. Sound like a suicide mission?

Also, looking back at my original posting about the clutch basket assembly and tying into my earlier question-http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1528313679/12#12

If I do switch out the clutch assembly, do I need to also switch out the gear assembly as suggested in the responses or is that only for the older model clutch baskets? The one I’ve purchased is from a 2008 s40. It will be installed on a 2001 ls650.
If I’m switching out just the plates and springs, will I be alright just doing the swap out? Or are there other adjustments I have gleaned over and missed?
Here is a link to my original posting when my clutch first died on me for background.

Thanks

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1468355267/31#31

I would say you're ok to just replace the plates, but...
There are issues to check when you install the plates so it's 50/50.
there's a bevel spring ring that needs to be installed correctly to work.
even after getting it all together, it may not work right due to something not sitting right.
check the oil gear engagement, push it in, pull it out, should have more than 50% engagement.
that throwout rod needs to stick out of the clutch pack by 12 to 12.5 mm to much and it'll hold the clutch in permanently, too little and it'll slip.
check function before carefully torquing every bolt down, sealing it up and filling with oil.

jjthejetplane wrote on 07/09/18 at 11:35:44:

Hack?
You remove the spider and springs... no tension.
if you're talking about the big nut and removing pack as a whole, replace two springs and secure with washers and the bolts.