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Need help with my 4 Wheeler - SOLVED (Read 99 times)
stewmills
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Re: Need help with my 4 Wheeler
Reply #15 - 01/09/18 at 19:20:21
 
Ok...got to investigating and I think it is a bad voltage regulator (what we call the rectifier).  It is #18 in the wiring diagram.

I verified I have voltage to the red/wht harness wire to #18 and verified I have continuity from the blk wire of the #18 harness to the MAIN 15A fuse terminal. But when I plug the voltage regulator into the harness and then test for voltage at the fuse at the blk pole I get no voltage.

THEN, when I unplug the #18 harness and jumper the red/wht to the blk I of course get voltage at the MAIN 15a fuse AND when I try to crank it up it cranks as expected BUT the key switch seems to be bypassed when doing this. It will start with the key in the off position and the only way to kill the engine is using the on/off switch on the handlebar.  I can only presume that this means that the voltage regulator is the culprit, and when the voltage regulator is working properly and plugged in that everything then works as expected with the key switch, etc.

So...it looks like I need a $40 voltage regulator. Now on to sourcing one of those....
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2008 | 152/52.5–Air Mix 3/4 | RT6 w/Redline | Seat Lift w/Sheepskin | Speedo Rattle | Rear Pulley Shim | 140/90-15 Rear | Kaw Front Pulley | Relocated Rear Signals

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stewmills
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Re: Need help with my 4 Wheeler - SOLVED
Reply #16 - 01/11/18 at 06:33:33
 
I solved the electrical issue!  It was tempting, but I kept after this and didn't buy a new (used) harness off fleabay for ~$70 or more.

What I ended up finding, which is exactly what several people have mentioned here and on the AC forum (nowhere near as good as this one), was a fault in the harness where it goes between the tank and front of the seat/frame headed towards the front (on the left side).  I used push-pins to peel back the harness cover and check voltage, had voltage in the red/wht on the right side before it went up behind the tank but no voltage up where the harness splits off to the coil. That told me there had to be a break somewhere in between.  I kept peeling things back until I found where the red/wht was in a factory splice and it worked loose, more like just broke loose (see pics). The wiring diagram was a great help, but you can't follow these things literally. In my case, the splice here is to carry power back from this live feed back to the regulator. Why they spliced it way up here versus jumping off back by the regulator and saving 2' of wire is beyond me, but whatever.  I guess that is why I kept going back to the voltage regulator because of the voltage there but not up front, and it wasn't until I peeled things back to see the splice and understand exactly what was happening that I understood the big picture.

So, to make the repair I cut off the old bad ends of all of the wires, then got a 2" piece of matching gauge wire and joined the wires back up in a heat shrink butt crimp connectors and then sealed over all connections with an additional layer of heat shrink tubing. I left a bit of slack in this repair so the remaining wires that are solid will carry the tension of the harness and this new splice can just rest in there without the risk of getting pulled apart, etc.

On a secondary note, I also found a connection in the ignition harness that was weak by mistake (was wiggling the harness after the main repair and the dash was coming on and off) so I cut out the bad section where the harness made a very tight 180 degree bend around a bracket and all is well.

My first time chasing wires on this level and trying to make sense of a wiring diagram on my own, and I have learned a lot and am more confident the next time something like this arises.
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2008 | 152/52.5–Air Mix 3/4 | RT6 w/Redline | Seat Lift w/Sheepskin | Speedo Rattle | Rear Pulley Shim | 140/90-15 Rear | Kaw Front Pulley | Relocated Rear Signals

FREEDOM ISN'T FREE!
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Re: Need help with my 4 Wheeler - SOLVED
Reply #17 - 01/11/18 at 07:27:52
 
Good job tracking down the problem.....sometimes the only way to resolve these issues is to play detective and just follow along the path the electricity is supposed to flow.  I had a 1970 Dodge Dart with a similar issue that kept the tail lights from working.....I found a broken wire in the trunk after a considerable amount of searching.
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