I looked at the SV650 brake caliper I have, and the problem with just making a new mount - is that there are two pins pressed and/or welded into the stock mount. Both pins extend out on the front side, and the brake caliper slides on those pins as the pads wear. One of the pins also extends inward, and the brake pads are held in place with that pin, and also another removable pin. There really is no way to reproduce these pins in the bracket - unless you are a really, really good machinist with some really good tools.
The stock bracket mounting point have thickened area around each threaded hole - and unfortunately the location of the new holes is offset just a bit, and at least of of the new holes goes partially through one of the old holes. This requires the old holes to be welded shut, then new holes drilled - and additional metal needs to be welded on to allow the new holes to be fully supported. To reproduce the thickened area of the old holes - I threaded the holes in the bracket, then inserted a bolt and installed nuts on the backside, and welded them in place (I had to use a bolt in the hole to ensure the threads were in alignment).
Here is what I posted in the other thread.
I first put the bracket in my lathe and machined off the raised portion that provides a thicker thread area.
I then welded up the original holes.
I then ground the welds nearly flush, then cut an extension piece to weld on. I left the extension large so it could be welded without burning it up....the actual extension needed was much smaller.
Here is the bracket cut to size and tapped 10x1.25. I then welded nuts on the back side to provide more thread area.
Here is what it looks like mounted. If I had it to do over again I would weld the extension with more area on one side - so the caliper could be rotated closer to the fork leg.
(NOTE - You can't just move the caliper inward by shortening the mount - the pads have to stay centered on the disc - so if you want to move the caliper closer to the fork leg, it has to be rotated along the curve of the brake disc. I would have needed to offset the additional metal I welded on to allow the needed rotation). I need to order some new brake pads, and while they are in the mail I am going to ride with the stock caliper for a bit so I remember what it feels like. Then when I mount the new one I will see how it works. If it works well, I will probably paint it silver like the original one. I believe I spent about 6 hours cutting and grinding on this...I sure hope it works!
So...if you are on a budget and have the tools and ability to cut/weld/thread - you likely can get a better brake with a used SV650 caliper and several hours of work. The additional braking power may exceed the heat capacity of the stock rotor if you are using the brake a lot with little cool down period (like the downhill section of Moonshiner 28 in north Georgia).
If you really want a good brake and can afford to buy it - get the one that Shawn makes:
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1475013866/0#0