OK lets take braking to the extreme! He chops the throttle ,hits the brakes as hard as possible ,but doesn't pull the clutch in .Lets say he applies the rear brake to the point that the rear wheel stops or skids. What rpm is the motor turning at that point? the same speed as the rear wheel ! ZERO!  I 'm a little slow sometimes but I think most people would call that stalling.If you want to stop ,with a chance of not stalling squeeze in the clutch and brake at the same time! Instead of wasting the already limited power of the rear brake to stop the motor and the rear wheel from turning ,the braking force can be applied to the rear wheel alone ,stopping you faster. It's not rocket science,it's logic !I f your leaving the  clutch engaged to prevent rear wheel lock up ,it might be better to adjust the brake cable to a point where you can hit the brake as hard as possible without lockup and not have to be worried about it's use in panic stops.

Eau, I just re-read your first post (after reading Dave's responses). I assumed you were pulling the clutch along with the brake. I agree with Dave. It sounds like your stalling the bike.

This subject appear to be very similar to an oil thread....or one on countersteering - there just doesn't seem to be a universal agreement on the subject.  Just do what works the best for you........

In the "panic" stop that requires you to brake at the absolute maximum level.....leaving the bike in gear under full braking will most likely cause you to either stall the engine as you brake as hard as you possibly can and say in control - or it will increase your stopping distance as you must also overcome the momentum of the spinning engine at the same time you are slowing the bike down. In a 60 mph to 0 mph stop you are traveling at 88 ft/s, and they claim the reaction time will use up 132 feet ....and the braking will require 172 feet - all of this in less than 5 panic filled seconds.  You don't have time to start downshifting.....and at some point you have to pull in the clutch as your speed drops toward 0.  In that scenario.....my engine will likely have stalled in the process.....and I really don't care as I have other things on my mind in that 5 seconds.  When the emergency is over I hit the starter button - and continue on my way (hopefully).

I realized that my comment on my engine stopping likely is not a good indicator about what should happen on a stock engine/stock CV carb bike.  I set my carb jetting up using an oxygen sensor, it runs great and has a nice tan spark plug, and it is tuned properly.  I have a VM round slide carb, bigger cam, Wiseco piston....and what my engine does may not reflect very well what the stock engine will do.  The CV carb does have the TEV to help correct the lean condition that is created when you allow the throttle to close fully under high vacuum conditions - and it likely does do some good when it is working well.

Yes, but if you make any other modifications to the intake, exhaust or engine, you might need to retune the first carb.

LOL beat you to it Stew, by seconds!

ohiomoto wrote on 06/08/17 at 10:02:09:


Do you mind checking with me first next time?