So I managed to throw a doodle together for the left peg.

Bare in mind that all of these drawings only show the formula and parameters That I am following, the measurements are *not confirmed* as I have not taken my controls off yet.

This drawing is a bit crowded (sorry) so edges have been gone over in blue pen to minimize the confusion.

Ed- Thank you for joining the thread, I will take as many tips/tricks/insights/dimensions/angles you'd like to share. The designs are all just in the draft stage for now I also can't measure the axle location properly until I get the to back side of the peg plates. In the picture of the left side template I have a 3/4" hole for a relief. Again, I haven't taken the controls of as of yet but I have roughly measured the clearance from the outside of the bottom extension hole to be 9/16" (marked as 19mm) does this sound about right? Thanks for any light you can shed on the matter.

Northwood wrote on 04/11/18 at 04:21:06:


Anyone who has tried to make this stuff for others soon realizes the metal isn't very costly - it is the "hours" of work it takes to transform the metal into something useful.

Savage parts cannot be mass produced by large companies profitably, so there is a lot of manual labor involved by fellows working in small shops with small tools.

Dave wrote on 04/11/18 at 04:24:28:


Not when you have access to a laser cutter

95% of the cost is in the labor, cutting and welding namely.  If I had my own shear and a plasma cutter, and a welder... my forward floorboard project would be much less costly.  

At present I'm trying to come up with a good way to line up the frame tube hole (the short bolt, not the two long ones that run all the way through the frame/engine case) so that I can mark it and drill it without having to put the left side plate on, mark the hole, remove it, drill the hole, then put it back on.

mz250, I'm glad to see you know so much about developing,manufacturing, packaging, shipping, providing support and everything else involved in the production of the forward controls.
 I've had this discussion many times before and have found that the reality of producing something from raw materials to a finished end user friendly item takes a lot more time than most people expect.
 If you could take he time could you sit down and list all the different steps needed from raw materials to finished product including purchasing the aluminum, steel and hardware, welding, machining, finish grinding, painting ( don't forget buying the paint) packaging and shipping, basically the whole ball of wax, and you might see that it really isn't as easy as you might think it is. Oh I also forgot maintenance and repairs on the machines used in the process and purchasing disposables like abrasives.

I'm not interested in starting a flame war, just trying to express what it takes to produce the forward control kits. When the material costs and time are factored in I'm making under $20.00 per hour for my effort.
 Northwood, check you PM box for some build tips on DIY forward controls.
Ed

I'll offer one small tip. You will need to consider the length and routing of the kickstand kill switch, if you want to maintain it's functionality.

I cut a small notch in the bottom of the left plate on a set of EdL's 4" controls to accommodate the wire. Fortunately, there was enough slack in the stock wire to reach the new location of the switch.

The wire does hang down a little bit in a small loop, but after a few months of riding it is still intact.