Ok. I actually tried today. I emptied the gas and put 93 octane instead of 87. Didn't help...much. ran it around the driveway and really had to keep the throttle up to prevent stalling. Had a good bit of gas in the crankcase breather tube. I swapped out the petcock for the original vacume operated petcock. Didn't help. I took off seat, tank and carb. However, I can not get those screwy screws off the top of the carb to inspet it. Tried all my drivers. Are these screws jis too?

While at it. I replaced the plug. It was pretty dark with carbon but othewise looked pretty good. It appears to have been gappend at well over 041. inches. I replaced with a dpr8ea-9 gapped between 031 and 035.

Any pointers on what I should do about those srewy screws? Much appreciated. John

Kenny G, great idea. In lieu of a soldering iron can I use a heat gun?

Do you guys think performance carb from Lancer would be overkill?

Good points. To get the pivot pin out do I use an awl?

Well guys. I'm feeling pretty good. I was able to get the carb apart. The solder iron didn't work for me but a small pen torch loosened the lok tight.  Gonna replace the screws for the TEV and the top of the carb as well. I checked all the jets air and fuel. They are all clear. Surprised how clean this thing is inside. I checked both diaphragms and they are hardly sticky. There are 8 questions that I have....

1. There is a long brass tube (maybe jet) that goes through the carb body under the pilot jet. Is there a way to remove this and clean it? Or should I?
2. To test the float do I float in a bowl of gas? I know it is a stupid question.
3. The small metal clip that holds the needle valve on seems pretty loose. Should it be?or should I tighten it around the float tab?
4. I dI'd not take the throttle plunger and shafts off. Do I need to do this?
5. I could not loosen the screw under the float that holds the needle valve assembly. Is it necessary for me to go ahead and do this to inspect the needle valve assembly. If so I feel I can remove the screw but will probably need to replace it.
6. Would I benefit in any way by shaving/sanding the spacer ring at this time or is a moot point?
7. Anyone know the threads/specs of the TEV screws and carb cover screws so that I can replace them with Phillies or allens?
8. Lastly, my plug was way out of spec in terms of gap. Is it possible that the plug cause the hard starts and stalling and that I had the fuel problems because I kept flooding the engine? As to say....maybe it was never a carberator problem?

Thank you guys for your patience and advice.

Thank you Kenny!

batman wrote on 10/20/16 at 14:23:21:

Why you shouting?  

water should be hot so air inside expands.
even then the leak can be so fine that the air just dissipates into the water.