If you've never done this before, I suggest you find a machinist. We had another guy do the same thing and totally screw it up.

I was that guy.   http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1468203484

Yeah... EZ-OUTs are stupid.  

There was another guy that came after me, and he ran into the exact same problem. He broke an EZ-OUT in there as well like I did. He managed to deal with it without needing professional help. Maybe my thread helped? He sure did mention it.

It cost me $100 to have that bolt professionally removed (machinist-- we mounted the whole engine under the milling machine).

You may be able to remove it yourself if you are very careful and very patient. DO NOT GET UPSET, DO NOT GET IMPATIENT. If you do, you may as well have it hired done before you make a mess like I did.

No promises.   You may try and mess up and end up having to pay for it anyway in the end. If you try though, you can say you tried.

And, for goodness sakes... Don't try to blow it out with a torch! Heating... maybe... No cutting. You gotta drill it out. Left-hand drill bits might be advantageous.

I explained the mechanics of using EZouts. Once the bolt is drilled out, inserting the EZout presses the thin remaining material Out, binding it up, making it impossible to get out.
Drill small, drill larger until you can tap it out.
The worst EZouts are the square, tapered ones.
Snap On makes the only ones I have Any use for, and even They are lousy, at best.
Carbide rods with ridges and a nut that engages the ridges.


Ooopsies,, Rigid..


https://www.plumbersstock.com/ridgid-35585-extractor-set-10-screw.html?gclid=...

And for That$  you can pay a lot of your bill.

Time Serts are good.