Armen wrote on 08/09/16 at 15:20:22:

YES LOTS ,of engineering ,but we don't have another piston to move the air under! Versy already made the point that it can be done with a four cylinder ,that's because two of pistons are moving up while the other two move down ,BUT we only have one!

Batman,
Reread the comments.

Batman,
I will when the bike is done.
In the meantime, if someone wants some test guidelines, here goes:
Take the bike out (stock) on a long section of flat road.
Run it up as high as it will rev to in each gear.
Take a note of the MPH (or KPH).
Come back and remove the crank breather hose from the airbox. Plug the hole in the box, and put a K+N crank vent filter on the end of the hose.
Repeat the run.
Cut the hose and insert a one-way valve such as a automobile power brake vacuum valve in the hose and reinsert the hose into the airbox.
Repeat the run.
Remove the hose from the airbox, and reinstall the K+N crank vent filter.
Run again.
The folks from the Triumph Rat list saw consistent improvements by not routing the hot, oily crankcase vent air into the airbox. The last thing the engine wants (in other than freezing weather) is hot air. And the oil mist generated at full chat lowers the octane of the gas when it all meets up in the combustion chamber.
As Verslagen pointed out, the breather hose is pretty small for a big single. By only allowing air out (one way valve) of the bottom end, the only air pressure building up in there wold be from heat and ring blowby.
By the way, I did test all this stuff.
Early 90's when I built an SR500 (punched out to 560) that won the AHRMA Sound of Singles Senior Class national championship.
If you go to the vintage races, take a look at what the front runners are doing with the crankcase breathers.
Cheap, easy, proven, and it works.

Hey Kenny,
Will do. I'll take some pics this weekend.
I was actually thinking of running two breathers. Keep the stock hose and attach a brake booster valve to that. And since I'm not using a mechanical speedo drive, I was going to use the hole in the crankcase to run either a BMW Airhead or Ducati reed valve.
take care,
-Armen

Thanks Tim,
I've been taking some pics and some notes.
Just ordered the RYCA rear set brackets. Yes, I can make them, but I just don't have time  
Next step is bracing up and chopping up the swingarm to allow the wheel to move forward. 18" wheel and larger front pulley makes things too cozy.
Then the forks get twiddled. And, and, and....

Armen wrote on 08/12/16 at 09:00:40:


When I did my swingarm.....I cut it up, made the new pieces, welded them in.....and the the rear wheel axle and spacers wouldn't fit between them anymore.  Seems the welding caused the swing "arms" to pull in as the welds cooled.  I had to put a bottle jack in to spread them out.....and I am not sure they spread equally on both sides as I am having trouble getting my belt centered in the pulley (I will get it fixed when I pull some things apart this winter).

Make a spacer to put between the arms to maintain the spacing before you weld.....and/or make a jig or template so you can make sure things stay in alignment.

Actually now that I have re-read some of this it sounds interesting. I just wish I knew enough to understand the explanation you are giving Armen. I'm willing to try to learn.