I don't know if I should post this in here or not.  I'm sure I'll get mod squadded if not in the right place.
I ain't got a question, but making observations that might help someone.

There is a link to the fiche at the bottom of the post so you can see what parts I am talking about.

I was rolling the bike over to the jack for a "jack it up, check the bolts, check the tires and clean it up really good once in a blue moon" event, when I heard a strange clicking noise.  Got it up on the jack, spun the rear wheel.. and click, click, click..   Took a look, and the oil seal (#16) was loose and I could see the ball bearings in the bearing (#15), or what was left of them.  Almost half were missing (picture below).  Needless to say, the rear pulley was wobbling like crazy.. but I never noticed it when riding.  Makes me wonder how long it had been like that.

The bearing is a stock size (25X62X17), and the industry Part Numer for that is 6305-2RS, if you want to get a double sealed bearing.. which I did.
I don't think the stock suzuki bearing is sealed at all, which brings me to my "look out" point.  When you change your tires, pull off that oil seal and check/repack that bearing.  I never did..  

I removed the #25 bolts to separate #14 from #23.  You may not want to do that, but I figured it would make the rest of the job a bit easier.  But, I had to use an impact wrench to get them bolts out!

Getting the old bearing out is a pain.. especially if it looks like mine.
You need to pound the bearing out from the back side, which means you have to pound against that inner race, which means the bearing has to be intact enough that you can pound against the inner race.  
I had to re-assemble the bearing, space the balls evenly around the perimeter, and put steel pins and junk between the balls to keep them in place, then put duct tape over the whole mess to keep it together.
THEN I could flip the sprocket (#14) face down on concrete, select the appropriate size socket (24mm worked, a 26mm would have been better) to sit on the inner race.  
Clymers says "tap" it out..  No.. beat the snot out of it.  It's old, it's bad, and it is probably stuck in there good.
After you get it out, clean up the bearing well really good so the new bearing won't be quite so hard to "tap" in.. and, yes, you want to tap it.  A little coating of grease in there won't hurt either.
The manual says to use a socket that matches the outer race to tap the new bearing in.  Good luck with that.. I didn't have anything even close to the right size.  I just used a steel hammer and tapped around the perimeter until it was flush with the well.  Then I used a punch and kept on tapping until the bearing was completely seated.  Around and around the perimeter, a little at a time.  Be careful that you don't slip and punch a hole in the seal.  Stay on the outer race.
You can tell if when it is completely seated by feeling the back side for a gap between the bearing and the well.  Also, the oil seal should tap in so it is flush with the well.

http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d32fc4f8700232d0b3d952/rear-wheel

Tocsik wrote on 05/10/16 at 13:24:26:


151,000 miles .. and I ride a lot of places I shouldn't (water, mud, etc), and normally wash the bike at the car wash with a sprayer, and that could wash out the grease as well if not careful.

I got my bearing on ebay from USA Bearings and Belts for 5.47 shipped.

Redryder652 wrote on 05/20/16 at 06:56:12:


There is no need to replace the bearing unless it is worn out.
You can see if there is too much play without taking anything apart.
Just grab the rear pulley and try to shift it side to side.  It shouldn't move.
There will probably be some play when you try to rotate it.  That's just the rubber shock absorbers (#4 in the drawing).  
If you are going to have the rear wheel off anyway, you can check for play in the wheel bearings and the pulley bearing.  Stick your finger in the inner race and wiggle the bearing.  You shouldn't feel any play.  The bearing should rotate smoothly.
I don't know what you mean by "bushings".  I replaced the rubber shock absorbers as I wasn't sure how much damage the the bad bearing caused.  They were scuffed up pretty bad, but no cracks or breaks.
If you do replace the shock absorbers, be prepared for a bit of a battle getting the pulley back on the wheel.  New shock absorbers are very tight.

How big a difference?  No idea.  I didn't notice the problem until I heard that clicking noise!!!

And to reduce the loads on the bearing for the pulley hub (even a new bearing), you can do the rubber floor mat upgrade:
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1446828836/0

Or if you have a lathe you can make a bushing.
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1428436529/4#4