Well, I just got my Daystar 58 boots in the mail today. Indeed, they are much better than the junky 83's. I just wish they were shorter.

I decided that it would be a lot of trouble to change the seals (and now that I've worked with it, I realize that I would risk having to buy a new seal retainer clip. I followed the video instructions for the Seal mate and fashioned one out of a pop bottle. Worked great! Now that wasn't so hard...  

The seal seems to work now, if only I can get it filled right! I tried to fill it with Dextron III ATF with it on the bike, but I put too much in there, and it hydro-locked. I took some out with a syringe, but there's still too much in there. I'm just going to have to take the forks off tomorrow. The oil that came out of the seal while cleaning it was nasty anyway, so it could use a bit of flushing.

Why couldn't they make a drain plug for the stinking thing!!!  Too expensive to drill and tap two more holes? Did they think that it was beneficial to be forced to take the whole thing apart just to change the fluid.

That would be like having to pull the whole engine and flipping it upside down just to change the oil!

I noticed the oil level is taken with the forks collapsed. Why can't they measure the level with the forks on the bike? Is it just because of getting too much air in the system with the forks extended? I'm going to have to take them off to get the boots on anyway and clean out the dirty oil....

I noticed that there was some rusty grime collected in the seal area under the dust seal. Should I be concerned? Should I replace the seals anyway? Should I just get clean oil in it and ride? If I replace the seals, I risk breaking the retaining clips, which could be rusty.

cheapnewb24 wrote on 02/05/16 at 22:07:58:


It is possible to use a syringe, and a piece of tubing to remove fluid and adjust the level of the fork oil.  If you are trying to get 110 mm of air space (an random example) - you just mark the tube at 110 mm and then insert the tubing down the fork tube and suck all the fluid out until you get air in the tube.  Try to keep the small tube centered in the fork leg, and the fluid level will be as nearly as correct as it would be with the fork perfectly vertical.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_T0Zkw2-0g

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HIAomp_rpQ

The reason they don't put drains in all motorcycle forks....is economics.  On the bikes that are cheapest, they cut costs in every manner possible.  If they don't have to make the fork leg casting with a boss for the drain, and they don't have to drill the hole, tap it, and counter bore a flat place for the seal/washer....they can same a couple of bucks.  If you make 100,000 motorcycles and can save $ 2 on each one, and you don't have to install and maintain a $ 100,000 machine to do it....you have saved $200,000!  (Just and example....I have no idea how much they really save or what the machinery would really cost).  (I have a friend that works for a very large company that sells products internationally.....and he spends most of his time trying to figure out a way to save a penny or two on each box.  When the company makes and sells millions of products each year - they can same a lot of money by just cutting the cost of each package by a few pennies).  I have always wanted car makers to use Stainless Steel for the brake lines - so that when my car is 20 years old my brake lines aren't rusting away and failing - but once again they just aren't going to spend the extra money to build them that way.