Hello guys,

I'm new to both this forum and also as a Savage owner.
My name is Björn, lives in Gothenburg Sweden and English is not my native tounge but i'll d my best to be understood  

I just bought this bike as an Project. The bike had an broken Engine and was quite dismantled. Luckily, my friend had an running Engine to spare so the last couple of days now I've been puting them together.
But i've run in to some Engine trouble;

The Engine only revs to about 3000 rpm and it sounds like it's misfireing.
it will not get past these 3000 rpm.
The old bike that had this Engine had the same problems and different CDI:s, sparkplugs, petcocks, ignition coils and carburetor has been tested without it being solved.

As I see it, there is only 2 reasons left that I can Think of.

First is the valves (intake/exhaust). Perhaps they needs to be adjusted.

Second is the ignition. Is it possible to adjust the advance/retard on the ignition maualy? I can't find anything about this in my Clymer manual.
Or can the ignition plate only sit in one way and the CDI will do the adjustment automaticly?

Or am I missing something obviuos?

Also worth to mention is that the bowl vent hoses on the carburetor is not attached. But as I have understood it shouldn't matter.


// B

Start with the simple stuff, check the petc0ck by putting it in reserve and clamping off the vacumn line going to the side of the carb.
 The sensor location for the ignition is in a different location with the 4 and 5 speeds. Instead of swapping the rotor try swapping the left side cover where the sensor is mounted. I would think it should work but has never tried it. You will need to use the different starter gears that came with the side cover you are using.
 A bad high voltage coil could cause the problem but by reading your post you have already swapped one out.
 Try to find out what was done to the engine before you got it. It might give you a clue as to what to look for.

left side is the stator cover.
the timing sensor is mounted with a screw in a hole.
some have sloted it, but you only get a couple of degrees adjustment.
don't think that'll do you much good.

If the carburetor has not been swapped with a known working one, check the needle in the slide.  The spring should be below the clip pushing the needle up not above pushing it down.

Back again after some wrenching and now I really need some help with what I'm doing from you engine gurus

I've removed the left engine casing and I'm not sure how it should be  

I don't understand how you attache multiple images in one post so there will be 4 posts with these images of the rotor mounted on the engine

Pic 3:

The Engine is put in TDC and as you can see on these images the rotor has some scratches on it and the "welded piece" on the side of the rotor that the pickup reacts from is approx 3" long.

Due to the condition of the rotor I can most certainly say that someone has been working on this rotor Before.

The markings on the rotor is:

72
6601
F3T434

But I also have the old Engine for this bike, please see Picture below.
That rotor is totally unharmed and the welded part to which the pickup reacts is only approx 1" long.

The markings on this rotor is:

71
2901
F3T434

Everything on the bike (As CDI, coil etc) is original from the "old" Engine.

Can it be so that someone sometime has changed rotor on the Engine that won't rev above 3000 rpm and has mounted the wrong rotor?

I would really appreciate some help in this matter since I don't know what the differences may be.

Thank you in advance.

// B

I believe you're right, the difference between new and old is the length of the welded piece.  I noticed it, but didn't register which is which.  Will have to look at it when I get home.

Take a look at the starter upgrade in the tech section index.